LADAK. 137 



rows of roses became more abundant, and one or two 

 small villages were lovely with them, and their rich crops 

 of grain beans, peas, and lucerne, all in bloom adding 

 beauty and fragrance to the scene. Bright sparkling 

 water, too, in plenty trickled across and down our path. 



But, though I tried hard, I could not properly enjoy 

 all these charms : I was so weary and uncomfortable. 

 Some five or six miles beyond where I looked for our 

 halting-place, Kargyl, we at length reached it an ir- 

 regular basin, into which flows the river I have been 

 following, and another from the east, both united flowing 

 out in a northerly direction as a large rapid river. A 

 square fort with corner turrets is the principle feature, 

 glaring with whitewash. The crops all around are fresh 

 and green, the whole surrounded by massive mountains 

 of varied form, but of one hue of sombre brown. 



8th July. Sunday. A delightful fresh morning, which 

 induced me to take a stroll before breakfast, feeling now 

 perfectly recovered from yesterday's fatigues. I had 

 pitched my tent in a small tope of young poplars, in the 

 midst of which some clear water, escaped from a channel 

 in the hill above, had found its way moistening the ground 

 and producing fine green turf, but leaving a dry sandy 

 space for a tent. Sand-flies were numerous and per- 

 tinacious. During the night I was suddenly roused with 

 a sensation of something in my hair ; raising my hand I 

 clutched something of peculiar substance, but felt it had 

 legs. I threw it on one side shuddering, and was amused 

 this morning at seeing the object of my fright on the 

 canvas over my head a large, fat, green caterpillar, with 

 a pair of tweezers at his tail, with which he held on. 



My stroll led through the small fields hanging on the 

 hill-side, supported by rough stone walls in terraces, the 

 crops rich and beautifully green. My path was agreeably 



