LADAK. 151 



looked for. More I could not discover, the shikarries 

 being very obtuse in apprehending an idea on such sub- 

 jects. These are not tombs, then, but rather altars. 



On return I announced my intention to move to-morrow. 

 The lumbadar came to see me. He had just returned 

 from Leh, had a decided Thibetan face, and wore some 

 ornaments, necklace, ear-rings &c., of red coral and tur- 

 quoise. These appear to be the fashionable jewels here, 

 nearly all the poorest even, in rags and tatters having 

 a bit or two stuck about them. He showed me a card 

 written by poor Moorcroft who perished so sadly in Bok- 

 hara, bearing date June 16th, 1822, stating that he had 

 presented a coral to the monastery, as a token of his visit. 

 This lumbadar was an interesting fellow, evidently very 

 bashful and sensitive, but quick in apprehension and in- 

 telligent. 



The cow case came up for final adjudication, the animal 

 in the same condition ; so after some discussion I gave 

 the owner the full price of the cow, as stated, viz : six 

 Maharajah rupees only five shillings English and, if 

 it recovered, so much the better, he would be a lucky 

 fellow. So ends this sporting episode. It has not been 

 without its good results in establishing the European 

 character for justice. 



14th July. "We got away at 5 A.M., and took the path 

 onwards to Kalsee. It threads a narrow gorge giving 

 exit to the waters of a torrent, the scenery grand and 

 savage towering cliffs, beetling crags, shutting out the 

 sky. The path was conducted in the most irregular 

 evolutions and zigzags, and occasionally running almost 

 into the river ; so much so that I was reduced to mounting 

 Subhan at two places to keep dry. We crossed several 

 well-constructed bridges, and came upon a much larger 

 stream, which we followed through its devious windings 



