152 LADAK. 



to the Indus. In one place it rushed along a channel 

 cut in the solid rock, each side level and scarped as though 

 by man, the depth being some twelve feet, and the width 

 about six. 



At length this ravine, opening out a little, debouched 

 upon the valley of the Indus running at right angles to 

 our course, and here a dirty, shabby-looking river, of 

 some twenty or thirty yards in width, in a narrow and 

 sterile valley, the mountains on either side shelving down 

 so close to the river as to leave little more than a few 

 yards of level on which was the path. We saw on the 

 opposite side men working at a hole, and on our own met 

 others with gold-washing implements, a wooden, flat, 

 boat- shaped affair, with a cane- work frame, and ladles of 

 gourd. I believe the yield is very scanty. 



On, about a mile, to a bridge over the Indus, on this 

 side of which is a Buddhist shrine ; on the Ladak side is 

 a small fort of sun-dried brick, very insignificant a 

 three-pounder would knock it into ' smithereens ' in half 

 a dozen rounds. There are three or four sepoys here. 

 All goods are weighed here, and pay duty before crossing. 



It was about half a mile further to Kalsee: and 

 pleasant, indeed, it was to see the green trees and fields. 

 The place appeared quite civilised after the savage country 

 we had traversed. There were large gardens and fields 

 fenced in by stone walls, fruit trees thickly interspersed 

 amid the grain, principally standard peaches, the fruit 

 now at about half its size. The whole wore a charming 

 aspect of industry and improvement. Passing along the 

 walls, we came under the village which, built on the side 

 of a rocky hill, overlooks its smiling terraced fields and 

 orchards, now beautifully green. The path now led 

 under some fine spreading walnuts, affording delicious 

 shade, a most grateful relief to my aching eyes, parched 



