154 LADAK. 



and Avas really unwell from its effects. Lama Yurru 

 always afforded a cool refreshing breeze ; and there is a 

 considerable difference in the altitude of the two places, 

 whicli gives that place the advantage of the cooling 

 influence of the snows on the neighbouring mountain 

 heights, from which Kalsee is too distant to benefit at 

 this season. 



I turned into my little oven of a tent, the heat very 

 great, and innumerable sandflies adding their torments 

 to its discomforts. 



15th July. Sunday. After a restless night I arose 

 not feeling much refreshed, but taking a stroll, and 

 ascending a hill, the fresh morning air and fine bold 

 scenery gradually had its beneficial effect on mind and 

 body. I mounted some distance, expecting a prospect in 

 the direction we should proceed to-morrow, where, by 

 the way, Subhan and Mooktoo have gone on their own 

 suggestion to look about and make enquiries. I found 

 the view intercepted by an elevation too considerable to 

 encounter as I felt, so sat down amid the boulders, still 

 having a splendid prospect up the Indus, not seeing much 

 of the river but the adjacent mountains which were 

 more varied in form and broken up than usual here ; and 

 the colouring was this morning rich, and yet subdued 

 and toned down under the effects of a delicious haze, the 

 soft morning light sobering the too glaring browns of 

 these naked rocks, leading them away from the fore- 

 ground by imperceptible variations of shade here and 

 there a suspicion of olive green until they were lost in 

 the pervading blues and greys of distance. The tone 

 was soft and mellow yet cool. I was charmed; and 

 my mind soon took that devotional phase which such 

 influences are so apt to produce. 



I returned in mind serene and cheerful to camp. I 



