158 LEH. 



monasteries and shrines which stand out conspicuously 

 amongst them. 



The lamas are evidently strong in this neighbourhood. 

 They, like the monks of old in our native land, are to 

 be found congregated in the most fertile and richest spots 

 in the country. The mode of life and habits of these 

 Buddhist recluses assimilate very much also to those of 

 the monks. They live in sloth and idleness on the labours 

 of an ignorant and superstitious population, in requital for 

 their maintenance and comfort performing such religious 

 rites as their formulary directs, and repeating prayers. 

 But their principle occupation, I am told, is blowing 

 copper horns from which I have experience of their 

 producing awful sounds and drinking tea, which they 

 render a substantial article of food by mixing it with 

 butter to the consistency of batter. They wear a 

 monastic dress of a dull red colour. I saw one of the 

 fraternity to day and a very ugly specimen he was 

 pass by, two or three times, with a bright copper concern 

 in his hand about the size and shape of a cook's flour- 

 dredging tin, to which a string and tassel were attached 

 which he kept twirling round as he went. This was 

 probably some devotional act. 



We took up a narrow strip of ground shaded by 

 walnut and peach trees not bad quarters and here I 

 breakfasted ; which meal did not pass over so pleasantly 

 as usual. My milk brought with me was sour : it was 

 carried as usual in a soda-water bottle. I directed 

 fresh to be brought, and when it arrived it was very 

 dirty, as is everything here. Mooktoo and Subhan set 

 to work to prepare it for my use, the process as 

 follows : Subhan' s turban was taken off and two 

 end folds used as a strainer, a portion being depressed 

 into the neck of the soda-water bottle ; but as the 



