164 LEH. 



singular effect, looking like an enormous mud bank 

 solidified brown, barren, and stony. Turning the spur 

 of a range coming right down to the river, an expanse of 

 green turf opens before one, a fort-like building on a 

 high rock in front, and an enclosed garden near it. For 

 this I made, now rather knocked up, my right foot being 

 sore from chafing, causing me to limp heavily. I forced 

 open the door of the garden which only contained 

 willows and poplars, and, finding a tolerable house in the 

 middle empty, took possession of the same, well satisfied 

 with such good shelter, and anxious for refreshment after 

 five hours' most fatiguing tramp. 



I sent out to find some messenger to send in to Leh 

 with orders to the thanadar, Basti Earn, to send me a 

 tattoo on which to complete my journey in the afternoon. 

 Coolies under the sepoy made their appearance, and were 

 ordered on, but exchanged at a village close by this was 

 the third change to day and, soon after, Subhan trotted 

 up with four tattoos which he had engaged for our party. 



I remained under shelter till 4 P.M. ; then mounted 

 and took the route to Leh ; which place we soon sighted on 

 crossing an elevation, its remarkable fort, formerly the 

 palace of the Rajahs of Ladak, standing out conspicuous, 

 looking out from the top of a rocky hill under which the 

 city appears to repose. 



There was now a dreary plain of gritty sand to be 

 traversed which was unspeakably tiresome, being four or 

 five miles in extent, the sun and glare cruelly strong. 

 This passed, we reached rugged, irregular, cultivated 

 ground, where a good strong nag, of the Bokhara breed, 

 I fancy, sent by Basti Earn, met me ; on which I was glad 

 to mount, having with difficulty urged the little mare I 

 was on to a smart walk, she constantly stopping to look after 

 the safety of a small foal, following whinnying behind. 



