LEH. 



167 



when it was only in embryo. I notice a perceptible 

 lengthening of visage and a melancholy tone in discussing 

 the question, which I attribute to rumours afloat of the 

 Yarkand road being frequented by robbers. It is certain 

 that a merchant of this place was, not long since, plun- 

 dered of all his property somewhere between here and 

 Yarkand. But that they are afraid of my reproaches, 

 and aware of the uselessness of such a course, I verily 

 believe they would attempt to dissuade me from going 

 now, and I must be careful not to let them humbug me 

 with false reports. I know them to be capable of any 

 amount of falsehoods, of any calibre. Phuttoo wears a 

 particularly suspicious sneaking look to-day, from which I. 

 surmise him to be plotting some deceitful trick or other. 

 I strolled just outside the enclosure in the afternoon, 

 and find Leh to be situated within an arc, almost a com- 

 plete circle, formed by rugged, naked hills, spurs of a 

 lofty range of mountains running to all appearance 

 north and south, or thereabouts, in the rear of Leh 

 from which these spurs stretch down to the Indus, em- 

 bracing the plain of Leh, leaving open the space debouch- 

 ing on the Indus, up which I came. Leh itself is built 

 upon a ridge which projects from the centre of this arc 

 some short distance into the plain, occupying its extremity 

 that is, the large building before-mentioned does ; but 

 the town is placed on the southern face of the ridge. 

 With the exception of the comparatively small extent 

 of irrigated fields, all around is bare and desolate. Look- 

 ing from Leh across the Indus, is seen a tract of culti- 

 vation of considerable extent, running up into a valley, 

 clusters of houses here and there giving it a cheerful, 

 prosperous aspect. This, I am told, is the village of the 

 rightful owner of Ladak, where he resides in humble 

 obscurity. 



