LEH. 171 



good view of the town, with the Rajah's residence tower- 

 ing over it; and higher again than that, some way 

 removed up the same ridge, is a lama monastery. Others 

 are on the side of the hill. The whole scene is extremely 

 curious and picturesque. I peeped into some of the little 

 shops, and saw there, of course, Manchester cottons of the 

 most brilliant hues. But nearly every shop was empty, 

 this place being really but an 'entrepot' affording accom- 

 modation to the traffic between Yarkand, Cashmere, and 

 the plains. By all accounts Yarkand is a place of much 

 importance, and a great mart, merchants from all the 

 surrounding regions meeting there for trade and exchange 

 of commodities. 



I visited Bella Shah, the principal merchant, who has 

 a comfortable house in the Eastern style an intelligent- 

 looking man. I had an interesting conversation with him. 

 By the way, had I not applied myself to the study of 

 Hindostani, how much I should have lost. He had been 

 to Yarkand, and described the country as most fertile, the 

 town as a grand place, rich and populous. He further 

 told me that, eight days' journey from Yarkand, on this 

 side, large herds of yak are met with, and that the country 

 generally abounds with game ; that the road is not so very 

 difficult; wood scarce certainly in places, but always 

 something, sticks, weeds, or horsedung to be got for a fire 

 large enough to cook with. This is the information I was 

 wanting ; and my mind is now settled to cross the Kara- 

 korum range, the pass over which, he assures me, is a 

 very easy one. 



After a long and profitable visit I departed, the shikar- 

 ries, who had attended me, greatly elated at the news. 

 I returned to breakfast very 'koosh,' my domestics listen- 

 ing with glistening eyes to Bella Shah's 'kubbur,' 

 evidently sharing the pleasure I experienced. I was 



