TO THE SHAYAK. 185 



We had to quit the sand, and ascend a steep, rugged 

 spur of the mountain, immediately under the foot of 

 which the river rushed, making a bend S.W. Then 

 down again we went, and had to toil over a good three 

 miles of sand and shingle, our halting place always in 

 view, but seeming never attainable. We crossed a 

 beautiful clear stream, a bit more shingle, and then up a 

 slope to the village of Diskit, a straggling place on a 

 stony plateau looking down on the valley, here some mile 

 and a half wide. Opposite is a valley partly revealed, 

 down which, from the northward, flows another stream, 

 tributary to the Shayak. Up that stream our route lies. 



The gopal came to pay his respects, bringing some fruit 

 very small apricots, about the size of a marble and insipid. 

 I learned to my sorrow that the river was impassable at 

 present, and had been so the last three days. The sun 

 was very hot, and but little shade was afforded by the 

 ragged peach trees. The thanadar's son came to offer 

 his salaam, also bringing fruit apricots, peaches, and 

 nectarines, all very small and unripe, also some cherries 

 of the colour of greengage. He assured me that the 

 river was impracticable, but might possibly be passable in 

 three or four days. He made difficulties at first about 

 horses ; but on Abdoolah speaking somewhat sharply and 

 authoritatively, quoting the thanadar's assurances, the 

 young man gradually softened his objections, and after 

 a time promised that everything should be ready for me, 

 but pointed out that the state of the river was unfavourable, 

 as all communication with the villages on the other side 

 was cut off. He proposed that I should take shelter in a 

 house which, however, when inspected by Buddoo, was 

 reported too dirty and offensive for my occupation : so I 

 turned into a small paddock instead, finding tolerable 

 shelter under a large peach-tree, the trunk of which, I 



