TO THE SHAYAK. 195 



the actual kardar of Lobrah, and Ahmet Shah's relative 

 the government moonshi. 



After dinner I was talking with the shikarries ahout 

 the roads and which way we should return, and we dis- 

 cussed the possibility of a road, marked in my map as 

 leading from Kopalu to the^Yarkand road, being practi- 

 cable. A native of Kopalu told us he believed there was a 

 path, but that it was a very difficult one, quite impracticable 

 for horses ; but that it was only five or six days from the 

 Karakorum to Kopalu. This would suit me capitally, if 

 we could but get sure information, and make fitting 

 arrangements. Then I should save fifteen days or so of 

 a dismal and uninteresting road. Abdool, guide, sitting 

 with the others, amused us all much by the vehemence 

 with which he denounced the project of this route, de- 

 claring it to be terrible, both from its natural obstacles 

 and supernatural ; relating how two Bhooties were 

 mysteriously killed by evil spirits who overwhelmed them 

 with sand and stones. He further stated that 'shaitan' 

 himself inhabited those regions, and assailed travellers, 

 tooth and nail : and, while spinning this marvellous yarn, 

 he illustrated it by action and gestures in a truly ludicrous 

 manner. He has a very comical ' phiz ' at all times ; and 

 when he takes off a large slouching felt hat he wears, 

 leaving his queer comical-shaped cranium (closely shaved) 

 bare, and in excitement indulges in involuntary grimace, 

 he is a certain antidote to melancholy. He is a valuable 

 adherent, always busy at something; even immediately 

 after a long day's march he bustles about, and seems 

 never to think of rest or refreshment. How different 

 from the lazy Cashmiries ! 



Orders were issued for an early start, as I wish to make 

 up for lost time, and, having crossed the river, to push 

 on another stage. 



o 2 



