TO THE KARAKORUM. 217 



level ground, the valley narrowing to a mere ravine, we 

 halted in a sort of swamp affording a good bite of grass. 

 We found five or six pair of napu horns, but could per- 

 ceive no recent traces of those animals. The baggage 

 arrived in good time, except the sheep and goats which 

 had to be carried across stream, a work of much time 

 and trouble. When they did arrive at night, one of the 

 poor goats appeared with a horn broken, and evidently 

 suffering much. The evening set in very cold. A storm 

 driven by a furious blast roared down the valley ; but 

 shortly expending itself, the swift-passing clouds made 

 way for the welcome sun whose departing beams were 

 most cheering. 



After dinner, which I eat shivering with cold, and at 

 which, by-the-bye, figured a dish of rhubarb I had 

 gathered on the hill-side, of which there is abundance, I 

 went to warm myself at the small fires of my followers, 

 where they were preparing their frugal fare ; that of the 

 Bhooties consisting of simple hot water and bread. A 

 large copper vessel was on the fire round which they sat, 

 and one ladled out this mild liquor into the cups of the 

 squatting group. These cups are remarkable, being 

 carved from a very handsome brown striped satin-wood. 

 They come from our hill- states. Each Bhoot carries one 

 which constitutes his entire stock of crockery. From this 

 party I turned to my kitchen fire, where cakes were in 

 course of preparation. I got a plate of tea, and returned 

 to the Bhoot party, and, to their infinite delight, pro- 

 duced the tea which, however, they intercepted as I was 

 pouring it into the vessel, reserving half for a future 

 meal. They greeted me with many 'johoos/ and eyes 

 glistening with pleasure. Poor creatures ! a little kind- 

 ness is excessively appreciated by them. 



Now took place a very curious and important operation 



