218 TO THE KARAKORUM. 



the brewing the real tea not the ' make-believe,' as 

 the Marchioness styled the choice liquors she concocted 

 for Dick Swiveller. The tea heing immersed, a ladle of 

 ghee is put in, and four or five table-spoons of salt added : 

 then much stirring and mixing takes place, a curious 

 implement being used to froth the beverage, like what in 

 the navy in my younger days perhaps, the very name 

 now forgotten was called a ' swizzle- stick ' which, by 

 rapid revolution between the hands, aerated the grog in 

 the tumbler, giving it a pleasant sparkling appearance 

 and freshness of flavour. Many a time I applied it in 

 my first voyage from England to Hobart Town, via 

 Canada, instructed by the veteran purser, Tucker ; and a 

 by no means contemptible beverage it made in tropical 

 latitudes at eight bells. "Well, the tea well mixed, and 

 frothed, and repeatedly tasted, was ladled out to the 

 anxious party, and much relished ; of whom some, open- 

 ing their flour-sacks alongside of them, concluded their 

 meal by mixing up as much flour as would soak up the 

 tea, and form a paste which was kneaded with the 

 fingers, and then devoured with much relish. This is the 

 ordinary mode of tea-drinking among this people ; but 

 when a tea-fight is given, the compos is, of course, entirely 

 prepared in the one vessel, and served out, of the con- 

 sistency of strong gruel. 



16th August. To Bursey : a long fatiguing march of 

 about fifteen miles. Our route now lay north, and led 

 up the sandy bed of a much-divided river. We ascended 

 and descended two formidable heights, bulging out from 

 the mountains, which was very laborious work, the path 

 being deep in grit. About twelve o'clock, from the wide 

 sandy channel we were moving up some animals were 

 discovered, which on examination turned out to be shapu. 

 They looked as large as bara sing. I dismounted, and, 



