266 



THE RETURN. 



aware we were off the horse-track, having been misled 

 by a yak path. Much delay took place ere we hit off the 

 track. Then we had a gradual ascent of some six miles 

 over a barren stony tract, a nullah on our left hand. 

 The morning, hitherto sparkling and fresh, now became 

 overcast, and a violent storm of sleet assailed us. I 

 know nothing more miserable in travelling, than riding 

 at a foot's pace, your horse stumbling at every other step 

 or so, and a chilling blast cutting you to pieces, with its 

 horrid accompaniment of stinging sleet and hail. The 

 wind, which had been behind, now veered round and 

 blew direct in our faces, as we descended into a desert 

 plain of boundless extent. My borrowed nag's pace was 

 so far from agreeable that I dismounted, and trudged 

 doggedly on, head down. Gaining a little warmth, I got 

 on better as the storm abated ; but that coming on again 

 with increased bitterness, I at last pulled up, and sat 

 down with my back to it. After a time, I again trudged 

 on. How this ' maidan ' seemed interminable ! But at 

 length we came to a deep gorge with a stream running 

 down it. It was now about one o'clock ; and, but for the 

 idea I entertained that we must be getting near Waad 

 Jilgo, I had stopped here. Being far ahead of the riding 

 trio, I was forced to follow my own ideas, and pressed 

 onwards. Another interminable plain presenting itself, 

 on, on I trudged, without any seeming alteration in its 

 extent, until half-past three, when the shikarries over- 

 took me with the ghoont, thinking I must be tired. I 

 did mount, and rode on some six miles. There was now 

 a ridge of low hills in front of us, and a range of higher 

 ones immediately on our left. I hoped we might find 

 water at any rate on the other side, intending to stop at 

 the first place where was water. We had come a long 

 distance, and there was hardly a chance of the coolies 



