288 LEH AND LADAK. 



all but the solitary survivor of the Wurdwan lot which, 

 whether from pining in strange company in an uncon- 

 genial climate, or other cause unknown, is in very poor 

 case. 



20th September. After two or three miles of very 

 deep sand, we crossed the river where divided into several 

 channels. Its waters are diminished in depth and force, 

 otherwise it is not fordable when comprised in its main 

 channel. We had now a rough path up a rugged ravine, 

 with some very steep pitches to ascend, and did not reach 

 Karbong until eleven, and had to wait for breakfast till 

 twelve. The owner of the horses of my expedition, who 

 is accompanying me to Leh, there to receive his money, 

 came up and reported that five of the coolies had bolted 

 at our camp, and every male had disappeared from the 

 village, so that Abdoolah had adopted the only course 

 left, and gone back to another village with the sepoy to 

 impress other coolies. This mishap compelled me to give 

 up all thoughts of going further to-day, which will ne- 

 cessitate a double march to-morrow, including that hor- 

 rid mountain. 



21st September. A very severe frost, and the cold 

 intense on this elevated plateau, surrounded by snow- 

 covered mountains. I rose at the first glimpse of dawn, 

 and tramped fast and long before acquiring any glow. 

 After a heavy drag up hill for four hours I halted to 

 breakfast about a mile and a half from the foot of the 

 ascent ; which I then accomplished, not without sundry 

 slips and tumbles, the ice beneath the snow being hard 

 and slippery. The descent was steep and rugged, down 

 a horrid stony path running through corn fields now 

 under the reapers' hands, to the immediate precincts of 

 Leh, passing under the rock and its crowning palace ; and 

 thence turning across the fields we entered the enclosure 



