296 LEH AND LADAK. 



in order to bring his case before the Maharajah. Abdool, 

 the whilom guide, appeared and undertook to lead the 

 way out of the labyrinth of paths, and then took his 

 leave with proper salaams. I believe the poor creature 

 is really grateful for the treatment he has received from 

 me, a rare feeling among Asiatics. 



"We arrived without any adventure at Mimah, and 

 camped in an enclosure. The evening was delightfully 

 fresh, even rather chill, rendering a clear crackling fire 

 pleasant to sit and think or chat over. My nights now, 

 unbroken by that terrible oppression of lungs experienced 

 further north, pass in tranquil and refreshing repose. If 

 I do awake, it is but to enjoy the realisation of my con- 

 dition of health and security under God's blessing and 

 providence. 



27th September. We altered our course from that in 

 coming, Subhan recommending the road by Sassapool 

 instead of Hemschi, the abatement of the waters of the 

 Indus now having rendered the lower road practicable. 

 No ways loath, mindful of the stony hilly demerits of 

 the other, it was so ruled. The road as far as Sassapool 

 was very fair. Subhan recommended a move on to 

 Noorla, as it was yet early, about 9.30 A.M., and that 

 place not distant. In this, however, he was much mis- 

 taken. The path led along the banks of the Indus, up 

 and down precipitous rocks, rough, difficult, and most 

 wearisome, the distance such that we did not reach 

 Noorla till 4 P.M. There was little hope of the baggage 

 coming up till night, and the Cashmere coolies could 

 hardly be expected at all. I determined to make the 

 best of the lots of walnuts to be had for the pelting, and 

 some apples. 



At dusk Ali Bucks came up with the disagreeable 

 news of all the Bhoot coolies, who were taken in relay 



