298 LEH AND LADAK. 



walnuts on the strength of it. The jemadar of the 

 bridge fort, who had been uncommonly civil and obliging 

 when coming, advanced from his fortalice to salute me, 

 and, on my entering the doorway, presented a tray of 

 apples, congratulating me on my safe return. A Co. 

 rupee 'backsheesh' called forth abundant thanks, and 

 I passed the wooden bridge over the Indus, and was soon 

 in that tremendous gorge leading up to Lama Yurru, the 

 scenery truly magnificent in its savage grandeur, the road 

 full of precipitous ups and downs, and running as a mere 

 ledge over fearful depths and chasms. My old nag, on 

 which I was mounted, was a little nervous at these slight 

 shelves so projecting, some of which were formed on 

 pieces of timber let into the smooth side of the perpen- 

 dicular cliff, and, besides having an ominous leaning 

 downwards, were very shaky and full of holes. The old 

 Yarkandi snorted with alarm, craned in front, and dashed 

 forward when urged, trying to jump the suspicious spots. 

 But for this pusillanimous conduct he sought to make 

 amends by dashing at the stairlike path up hill, and 

 springing up at full gallop. I much enjoyed the excite- 

 ment of this hap-hazard ride. The weather was delight- 

 ful, and the surrounding scenery full of romantic charms. 

 We reached the halting-place, and things arrived in 

 due time. I made enquiries after the yak I had 

 wounded. The villagers interrogated pretended ignor- 

 ance, which naturally persuaded us that the animal had 

 recovered, and on the gopal arriving he at once told us 

 that it was so. My ponies' shoes requiring replacing, 

 nailing, &c., I had sent off for a smith who resided some 

 six miles off. Night approached, but no man of iron. 

 Lamenting this as a serious mishap, the gopal volun- 

 teered to do the job, and set to work, and in such a 

 manner as to keep me on tenter hooks, lest he should 



