THE BARA SING. 303 



2nd October. To Kargyl : a long stage this, but 

 midway very pleasant, traversing a cultivated vale, and 

 passing under a long grove of trees whose shade was 

 agreeable, although the air was fresh. Through Pashgyam, 

 and then over the bare uplands where the sun was oppres- 

 sive and the glare great, till we descended into the smiling 

 valley of Kargyl, with its many willows, fine brawling 

 river, and unsightly whitewashed fort. I noticed here, 

 as several times previously 'en route/ some curious 

 cooking vessels from Iskardo. They are chiselled out of 

 solid stone, of various sizes, from half a gallon to two or 

 three, are no thicker than the ordinary earthenware pots, 

 and, I am told, stand the fire better. Although there 

 must be much labour and skill required in their manu- 

 facture, though left quite rough, the price is but six annas 

 or so, according to size. The colour of the stone is grey. 

 Another description of vessel of smaller size is carved 

 from stone at Iskardo, of a greenish-yellow colour, and 

 soft in substance. These are more for ornament than 

 use, I believe. The former are highly esteemed for 

 ordinary purposes, and supply the place both of metal 

 and earthenware utensils in these parts. 



3rd October. To Tazgan : a long and very rough march, 

 the path hanging on the mountain side over the torrent 

 descending a narrow valley which leads to the pass of 

 Soonamurgh. Some patches of cultivation with two or 

 three huts here and there on either side evident signs 

 of increased fertility of soil are now discernible. Strag- 

 gling bushes, some stunted fir trees, and many deformed, 

 limb-twisted junipers, dot the sides of the mountains, 

 which are broken into stupendous ranges of magnificent 

 forms, and shew bright tints in the watercourses seaming 

 their declivities, where rank grasses and thick-growing 

 shrubs find suitable soil and moisture. Other coarse 



