B R O 



750 



B R O 



Brocade, have been gone over again and corrected. We next 

 v-' proceed carefully to take out the numbers in the lo- 

 garithmic Tables, answering to the several notes 

 marked by the letters in front of the first column, and 

 place them opposite in column two, after the sign = ; 

 the next operation is, to halve all these numbers where 

 an octave has been tuned downwards, as from A, B, 

 F$ and G$, which are to be placed below (and oppo- 

 site to their respective logs.) in the first half of the 

 Table, and to double all those where an octave has 

 been tuned upwards, as from G, C, and B^, to be 

 placed also below, in the lower half of the table, aD 

 the letters placed after the second column indicate. 



We now turn to the new and correct theorem for 

 calculating BEATS by our 4th method, and multiply 

 the least number of vibrations by 3, and the greatest 

 number by 2, (the terms of the ratio, i) in each cor- 

 responding pair of vibrations of the fifths, and place 

 the products below and above in the intervals in co- 

 lumn 2 ; by which means two numbers nearly alike 

 will come together, ready for subtracting to obtain 

 the beats, that are set opposite in column 4, to each 

 of these pairs of products ; by which process, all the 

 trouble and risk of mistakes in transcribing numbers 

 are avoided, and the whole operation may be preserv- 

 ed for future use or revision. The products for G$ 

 and E[j, at the two extremities of the parts of the 

 Table, may easily be deducted to obtain the beats, 

 where they stand, and without transcribing. Me- 

 thods go very simple and easy as these, of obtaining 

 the beats of the fifths, (and of all the other concords 

 by the same theorem that has been referred to,) to 

 the utmost degree of exactitude, will, we hope, stimu- 

 late many to apply them in the calculations on other 

 systems, who have been deterred by the very ope- 

 rose method hitherto known and recommended for 

 the purpose. In practice, the index and decimal 

 point of the logarithm, in column 1, may very well be 

 dispensed with. (5) 



BROCADE, in the manufacture of cloth, signi- 

 fies that species, in which a certain portion of woof is 

 interwoven, in order to produce fanciful variety upon 

 particular parts of the superficies of the cloth. In this 

 respect it may, without any violation of propriety, be 

 taken as a generic term, under which all the varieties of 

 spot, or japan weaving, may be included. As an article 

 of commerce, it can never be ot material importance, in 

 a country where the wages of labour are necessarily so 

 high as they are in Britain ; for hitherto, at least, no 

 attempt to introduce the aid of machinery has been in 

 any degree practically successful, and the tedious and 

 fatiguing process of mere manual labour will ever pre- 

 clude competition with those showy, although flimsy 

 nnd inferior substitutes, which can be afforded at less 

 than one-third of the price. This manufacture, and 

 the whole range of spotting, differs from the damask, 

 and other ornamental kinds, in this respect, that the 

 woof is only interwoven, where the figure is to be 

 formed, an entirely distinct woof being employed to 

 form the ground-work of the fabric. The requisite 

 machinery for this purpose will be found by referring 

 to Plate CIV. Fig. 1 ; and the remaining figures 

 will serve to illustrate how far the difference between 

 brocade, japan, and common spot weaving, consists in 

 ihe construction and mounting of the loom ; and how 



PLATE 



CIV. 



Fig. 1. 



far, subsequently, in the manner in which the loom, Brocade, 

 when mounted, is employed by the operator. In ~" ~~v~~~ 

 what is properly termed the brocade, or finger flower, 

 the whole of every flower is interwoven merely 

 by the hand, and this constitutes the enormous ex- 

 pence ; resembling, in some degree, that species of 

 weaving which has been brought to such a wonder- 

 ful degree of perfection on the continent, as in many 

 instances to rival even the most masterly efforts of 

 painting, and which is distinguished by the name of 

 Tapestry. 



The general appearance of a brocade loom, Fig. 

 1, which is a horizontal plan, will serve to convey 

 some idea. In this figure, the warp is only represent- 

 ed where the figures are to be shown ; the remaining 

 warp being, in every respect, similar to that of plain 

 or alternately woven cloth. When the warp is open- 

 ed for the common texture, the woof is interwoven 

 exactly as in a plain fabric ; and where a figure is to 

 be formed, a separate body of woof, mucli coarser, 

 is passed, by the operation of the hand, through 

 those portions of warp which are successively opened, 

 according to the form of the design or pattern. These 

 two operations are performed alternately, and thus 

 the fabric is formed, the general texture being effect- 

 ed by a shuttle, and the ornamental by manual la- 

 bour. In the general mode of performing this, the 

 weaver is assisted by a boy or girl, who sits along 

 with him, and assists him in passing the ornamental 

 woof through the warp which is rais-.'d. If, in Fig. 

 1, A, B, and C, are supposed to consist of three por- 

 tions of warp, set apart for the ornamental figure, and 

 if it be also understood, that any number of these 

 may be included in one web, according to its breadth, 

 its fineness, and the number and magnitude of the 

 flowers required, the general principle will be at once 

 comprehended. Let the noddies which open the warp 

 be represented at DD, and suppose every other part to 

 be exactly similar to any other common loom, the lay 

 being entirely omitted. Any portion of the warp may 

 then be opened, by raising the particular heddles ; 

 and when this is done, the ornamental woof which 

 forms every flower, may be passed through by the 

 weaver and his assistants. Let plain woof be then 

 passed through to form the general fabric, and the 

 desired effect must be produced. This is of itself 

 sufficiently obvious ; but the means by which it is 

 reduced to practice, and the drawings which practi- 

 cal artificers use as guides, are of importance to those 

 who are professionally obliged to use them ; and these 

 will be found in the horizontal plan ; for which see 

 Fig. 2. Plans of this kind will not only convey a 

 very inadequate idea of what is intended by them, but 

 would really mislead any man, only conversant with 

 the rules of mechanical drawing. They are, however, 

 those to which professional weavers always have 

 recourse; and it is, therefore, necessary, in order to 

 prevent confusion of idea, and even positive error, to 

 explain their principle. They may be considered as 

 horizontal plans of a weaving loom, but they consist 

 of two entirely separate and unconnected parts, which 

 are placed together merely for the sake of convenien- 

 cy. If we can suppose that an architect, for the use 

 of practical builders, would plan two separate floors 

 of a house, and represent them as parts of two ad- 



PLATE 



CIV 



Fig. 2. 



