BROCADE. 



751 



Brocade, joining houses, the idea will be at once correctly form- 



' -v i-d. Thus, the right hand part of the figure, from 



A to D, represents the heddles, and the left hand 

 part, from B to C, the heddles which, in actual prac- 

 tice, are really perpendicularly under the former. The 

 first of these, namely'the portion from A to B, re- 

 presents what is termed the draught of a web, or that 

 order of succession in which the warp is inserted in 

 the different leaves of which the hedtllea consist. The 

 second portion from B to C, serves to guide the per- 

 son who arranges the machinery of a loom, how to 

 form the connections between the heddles and the le- 

 vers, or treddles, by which they are to be moved. In the 

 article CLOTH MANUFACTURE, the general principle 

 of connection, and the ranges and powers of the re- 

 spective levers, will be found sufficiently explained ; 

 their particular application, therefore, is only neces- 

 sary in this place. 



For the draught of the warp, or its order of inser- 

 tion in the heddles, it is, in the first instance, neces- 

 sary to ascertain whether the two sides of the pattern 

 are similar or dissimilar; for in the former case only 

 one half of the heddles will be requisite, which are 

 indispensible in the latter. By similarity of the sides, 

 the following meaning is to be understood. Let an 

 ornament or flower consist of any given number of 

 threads, as 20, 4-0, 60, 80, or 100 ; then if, in the 

 first instance, the 10 threads to the left form an ap- 

 pearance exactly similar to the 10 threads to the 

 right, but inverted upon the cloth, the pattern is si- 

 milar, and may be wrought with 10 leaves ; if not, it 

 is dissimilar, and will require 20, exclusive of what 

 may be requisite for plain cloth in either instance. 

 The pattern in the figure is dissimilar, and therefore 

 requires twice the number of leaves which would be 

 necessary in one diverging equally from the centre. 

 In this pattern, 25 leaves are used, independently of 

 that in the front, through which every alternate 

 thread is drawn, in order to form the ground of the 

 fabric. Hence, if plain cloth be required, as it is in 

 the intervals between the flowers, the aggregate of 

 the 25 leaves, including one half of the warp, while 

 the front leaf singly contains the other half : these 

 two, wrought alternately, will produce the plain, 

 whilst the others may be so varied in succession as to 

 form any flower whatever, whose range does not ex- 

 ceed the number of threads contained in those leaves. 

 The draught of the warp is uniform and successive 

 from left to right, and hence the whole fabric may 

 be covered with flowers if required ; or the weaver 

 may, at his discretion, fill only every second, third, or 

 fourth, with the ornamental woof, and thus produce 

 a pattern richer or slighter, as may be found conve- 

 nient. 



The number of treddles necessary are 22. Of 

 these, the two represented at the right hand, and dis- 

 tinguished by the letters A, B, are intended for the 

 plain part of the fabric ; for A, when depressed, will 

 raise the front leaf, containing one half of the warp, 

 and B will exactly reverse the effect, sinking the front 

 leaf and raising all the others. The remaining tred- 

 dles, when used, will raise in varied succession the or- 

 namental part, and produce the pattern intended. 

 The cross lines drawn in the figure, are very similar 

 to those in the design paper, which is the general 



rule by which weavers are directed in their operations ; Brocade 

 and a copious account of which, illustrated by refe- " v 

 rcnces to the most extensive species of oniamcnul 

 workmanship, will .be found in the article CLOTH 

 MANUFACTUHE. Let whatever part of the pattern, 

 where the warp is to be raised above the woof, be re- 

 presented by the marks and dots upon the intersec- 

 tions of the heddles and treddles, and an exact rule 

 will be given to the weaver for the application of his 

 raising cordage. In a part of these the whole inter- 

 section is filled, which assimilates the appearance to 

 that upon design paper; in the remainder, dots only 

 are used, which is the way generally adopted in actual 

 practice. These marks, therefore, denote raising 

 cords, and where no mark is applied, sinking cords 

 arc to be used; so that the whole warp may be affec- 

 ted either in one or the other way, by the pressure 

 of every individual treddle. Upon this general rule 

 depends the formation of every flower which can be 

 woven upon cloth, whether incorporated into the fa- 

 bric, as in damask, or effected by separate woof, as in 

 brocading. 



The cording marks, in piano of this description, 

 may in general be reduced to three different descrip- 

 tions : 



1st, Those in which every part of the figure is in- 

 dependent and dissimilar. 



2d, Those in which the two sides are similar, but 

 where the top and bottom differ. 



3d, Those in which every part diverging from the 

 centre, is similar to that opposite to it. 



Of the first of these, the figure to which reference 

 has been already made, is an example ; and this, whe- 

 ther woven as a brocade, or as a spot, is the most 

 comprehensive kind. 



In Fig. 3, will be found an illustration of the 

 second ; and this we shall suppose is to be woven like 

 what is termed a common spot. 



Spotting, in point of show and effect, is consider- 

 ably inferior to brocading; but its great difference in 

 labour, and consequently in price, gives it many ad- 

 vantages over the former, which is much too expen- 

 sive for extensive and general use. Spotting is form- 

 ed by the insertion of woof, much coarser than what 

 forms the general fabric, and passes clear of every 

 part of the texture, the figures only excepted. The 

 intervals of the course woof are clipped away with 

 scissars after the cloth is taken from the loom, and 

 before it is sent to be bleached and finished. From 

 this circumstance, all spots are liable to a defect in 

 appearance, from which brocades are totally exempt- 

 ed. If this spot be supposed to represent a club, 

 only one half of the figure is necessary for the plan 

 of the cording ; for in the way in which the drawing 

 of the warp is done, two threads upon opposite sides 

 of the Figure being inserted in the same leaf, the sides 

 will be similarly formed by half of the mounting used 

 in dissimilar or independent spots. The mounting 

 here consists of two separate and independent figures, 

 which are to be wrought alternately ; and any portion 

 of the warp being inserted in the plain leaves A anii 

 B, the figures may be either contiguous, or removed 

 to any distance which may be thought proper. A 

 spot where all the figures are contiguous, without any 

 intervention of plain cloth, is called an allovcr; those 



PtATI 

 CIV. 



