ISPAHAN. 



329 



ltphmn. Chartlin relate*, that in his time, namely between the 

 >-y-^ years 1 666 and l67K, there were within the walls 16'2 

 nwques, 48 colleges, 1808 caravanseras, 273 bathi, 12 

 cemeteries, and the number of houses was computed at 

 38,000. But the ci'y has since undergone so ninny di- 

 lapidations, that, in addition to the total destruction of 

 the wall*, many of the most celebrated edifice* have 

 perished. But the Shah Maidan, or royal square, is 

 (till the finest and largest in the universe, and its ba- 

 an and religious edifices rival any to be seen in 

 eastern kingdoms. It is 440 paces in length, by 

 150 in breadth. At the distance of 25 feet from the 

 bouse* it was surrounded by a canal, bordered by lofty 

 trees, both of which are now destroyed. On the south 

 side stands the royal mosque, a magnificent building, 

 which was constructed by Shah Abbas in the sixteenth 

 century. Every part of it exhibits a style of archi- 

 tectural ornament quite unknown in Europe, ft is 

 entered by a gate about twelve feet wide, closed by two 

 leaves, covemi with plates of solid silver, partly gilt and 

 sculptured, which were added by Shah Sen the First. An 

 iron chain hangs across the outside towards the square. 

 Within these, are fountains flowing into jasper basons, 

 spacious courts, and extensive porticos, of which that 

 in the centre is surmounted by a vast dome and gilt 

 crescent, visible at 'the distance of four leagues on the 

 road from Casan. All this edifice is constructed of 

 nasty stone, covered with highly varnished bricks and 

 tiles, upon which are inscribed sentences of the Koran. 

 Though the royal mosque has lofty minarets, they are not 

 used for calling the people to prayers, from their over- 

 looking the neighbouring honse*, which excite* the jea- 

 lousy of the inhabitants. On another side of the Mni- 

 dan there is a Mahometan college, called the .Mf<lrr< , 

 Skak Sultan Houri*. Its entrance is gained by a lof- 

 ty portico, enrched with twisted pillars of beautiful 

 Tabriz marble, which leads through two brazen gates, 

 the extremities of which are of silver, and their whole 

 surface highly sculptured, and embossed with flowers 

 ami verses from the Koran. They open into a court, 

 on the right side of which i* a mosque, with a great 

 r-.ip.la covered with lacquered tiles, and adorned exter- 

 nally with ornaments of pure gold. It is deed by two 

 minarets; but they can no longer be ascended, as the 

 stairs are destroyed , and the dome itself is fall ing to de- 

 cay, but its interior is richly spread with variegated tiles, 

 bearing a profusion of inscriptions. Tlie other sides of 

 the square are occupied, one by a high and beautiful 

 portico, and the remaining two by small square cells 

 with carpets, as rooms for the students, twelve in each 

 front disposed in two stories. Her* there are thirty 

 professors, who not only instruct the youth in reading 

 and writing, but in the languages, belles lettres, geo- 

 metry, astronomy, and astrology. M. Olivier was in- 

 formed, that in 1796 there were MO or 400 pupils ; but 

 formerly, as many thousands bad attended it. 



The city contains few hospitals, nor are they well 

 widowed. One stand* beside an extensive caravanserai, 

 built by Shah Abbas die Great, who erected both at 

 the same time, that the revenue of the latter might sup- 

 port the proper officers of the hospital. 



The palace* of the kings are enclosed in a fort of 

 lofty walls, which are about three miles in circuit, and 

 to which there is nothing at all comparable in Eu- 

 rope, whether hi appearance or extent, or in the num- 

 ber and beauty of the edifices, dispersed over tpaci- 

 ou4 gardens. In general, the front room or hall is 



* VOL. XH. TAUT I. 



very open, and supported by pillar* exquisitely carved Iphan. 

 and gilded ; while the large el:'ss windows, through S "^V"' 

 which it receives a mellow- lijrlit, .ire curiously su.ined 

 with a variety of colours. Each has a fountain iit front. 

 The palace Ckehel Si/mm, or f>>r/i/ prlltirs, stands in the 

 middle of an immense square, intersected by various 

 canals, and planted with trees. Towards the garden, 

 there is an open saloon supported by eighteen pillars, 

 all inlaid with mirrors, and appearing from a distance 

 to consist entirely of glass. The base of each pillar 

 is marble, sculptured into the figures of four lions, so 

 deposed that the shaft rests on the whole. Mirrors are 

 likewise profusely arranged over the walls ; and the 

 ceiling is decorated with flowers in gilding. An arch- 

 ed recess, embellished in the game manner with glass, 

 and portraits, leads into a spacious and splendid 

 hall. The roof is formed in a variety of domes and 

 figures, and is tastefully painted and gilded. Part 

 of the walls consists of white marble, and part is co- 

 vered with mirrors : they are besides ornamented with 

 six large paintings, chiefly of Shah Ismael, and Shah 

 Abbas the Great, in battles and in royal fetes, which 

 are all of considerable age, yet the colours are perfectly 

 fresh, and the gilding surprisingly brilliant. No fur. 

 niture remains' here except carpets. Those of the time 

 of Abbas, two centuries old, are superior to the fabric 

 of the present day. Adjoining to this palace is the ha- 

 rem, which was erected by the second minister a few 

 years ago, and presented to the king. The apartments 

 are alike elegant as those of the other : the walls paint- 

 ed with birds, ravenous animals, and bouquets of flow, 

 ers ; besides which, they are resplendent with mirrors 

 and gildings. Here are sern the portraits of several 

 sovereign*, particularly of the present king, for whom 

 an establishment, complete in all its parts, is always 

 kept in readiness, though he resides at Teheran, many 

 miles distant The windows of this palace display 

 some beautiful specimens of stained glass and ena- 

 melling, disposed in couplets, in honour of the monarch, 

 together with quotations from the Koran. It appears 

 from Chardin, that the kings of Persia have always had 

 a number of palaces, arising from confiscations. But 

 he observes, that of 1S7 which belonged to him in Is- 

 pahan, the greater part were uninhabited, and many 

 falling to ruin. 



Most of the caravanseras and bazars are very fine. 

 Some of the former arc large, and appropriated for tra- 

 vellers from their resjiective provinces ; so that no diffi- 

 culty occurs in finding a stranger. Short and expressive 

 sentences are frequently inscribed on the outside, such 

 as, " Two companions are indispensable for a traveller, 

 a long purse and a good sword ;" or, " Ask for nothing 

 more than others have previously had," and the like. 



The bazars are highly celebrated, consisting of large 

 wide streets, arched and lighted from above. Several 

 are covered with domes, and painted, especially in the 

 interior, with the portraits of the heroes of the coun- 

 try, with combats, the figures of beasts, and similar sub- 

 jects. The most extensive bazar was formerly 600 

 geometrical paces in length, very broad and lofty, but 

 we do not know that any are now so large. By means 

 of successive communications, a passenger could tra- 

 verse the whole city sheltered from the elements. A 

 new one has been built, and those of older date repair- 

 ed, by the patriotic minister Hajee Mahomet Hussein 

 Khan. 



The suburb of Julfa stands on the south side of the- 

 2T 



