ITALY. 



377 



titles of sea-fUh are used in the southern' provinces. 

 Macaroni boiled, sprinkled with cheese, sometimes 

 mixed with the liver of chickens, f s the national dish, 

 and form* a principal part of every repast. It is Ire- 

 <|iienlly prepared in strings about a yard in length, and 

 It clown into the throat in a very awkward manner, 

 with the arm extended. The vcrrii.a is also a cele- 

 brated ili.-.h, consisting of the paps of a sow, which epi- 

 cure*, always cruel, have unhappily conceived to be 

 most delicate when cut from the living animal. Among 

 the more remarkable peculiarities of Italian diet, may 

 dormice, which in ancient Kome were 

 fattened in warrens, and are still accounted excellent 

 game in the southern districts ; horse flesh, which is 

 i-ly sold in the shambles at Bari and Francavilla, 

 and U named by the wit* among the populace cn/.ro 

 ffrraio, " shod deer ;" and dog*, which, at I .eccc and 

 Cacalnuovo are a favourite food of the lower classes. 

 Italian cookery, in roasting and boiling, is said to re- 

 semble the English ; and the chief difference consists 

 iu the abundant use of oils in place of butter. But the 

 Italians, though not inattentive to good eating, are not 

 accustotmned to give feasts ; and are universally tem- 

 perate in the pleasure* of the table, particularly in the 

 article of drink. Their repasts are short, and in their 

 opinion too hasty for conversation ; but they devote their 

 evening*, and no small portion of the night to society ; 

 holding conversation*, as they are termed, for the space 

 of four or five hour*, and presenting their company 

 with large glane* of lemonade, or small cups of cho- 



colate, in place of supper. 

 VMhinl There are perhap* no people in the world, ofwhose na- 

 ifcarn 11 1 tional character more opposite and inconsistent sketches 

 have been given, than of the modern inhabitant* of 

 Italy. It is utterly impossible to reconcile the varying 

 testimonies of different travellers on the subject, or to 

 ct the leading feature* of one generally applicable 

 description. 'Hie cauae may probably be found, not 

 merely in the different degree* of judgment, candour, 

 and opportunity possessed by the writers ; but in the 

 iractfT, which exist* in the country, 

 where the inhabitants live under so many different 

 form* of government, and in such diversified circura- 

 *unce* of condition*. " The oaths and curses, (for in- 

 stance,) 10 frequent in the mouths of the vulgar," say* 

 change entirely at the ftr*t step one makes 



M\ into the Neapolitan territories. 

 ; ,1 pn .' . i. '. i. .,:- ,,:' tin- . iqoi .: bt Cot ' a 

 i \ e- . ler in obscure word* or pious eja- 



ion* ; but the swearing of the Neapolitan, 



orders upon blasphemy." 

 i in the different provinces of tl.c same state, 

 diversities are obacrvable in the manner* and disposi- 

 tion* of the inhabitants. The North Calahresc (accord- 

 ing to the testimony of the last mentioned writer, found- 

 pon the authority of a learned native.) have a great 

 deal of German solidity in their disposition, supposed 

 to arise from the colonies transplanted thither under 

 tlie Sual> - ; while the n. > t evident trr.ces of 



Grecian manner* and turn of mind arc found in the 

 southern Calabrcte anel the Neapolitans ; and the Picil- 

 monUrse approach in like manner to the French cha- 

 racter. We must therefore content ourselves (ufter 

 specifying a few points which appear to be best authen- 

 ticated, and almost universally allowed,) with extract- 

 ing the testimonies of the more intelligent observer* on 

 the subject of the Italian character in general. 

 Among the Neapolitan* the upper rank* are ignorant, 



VOL. III. PART I. 



licentious, dissipated, and invetmtely addicted to the Statistic*. 

 most ruinous gallantry ; the gentlemen of the church s "Y"""*' 

 and the law tolerably well educated ; the middle class 

 possessed of considerable worth ; and the lower popu- 

 lace good humoured, open-hearteol, passionate, but not 

 malicious, and so fon;l of drollery, that a joke will fre- 

 quently serve to check their most violent fits of anger. 



The Tuscans are, in every view, the most worthy 

 and industrious part of the nation. The wealthier in- 

 dividuals are fond of learning, and friendly to strangers. 

 The peasantry sober in their manners, and even dis- 

 tinguished above the other Italians in respect of their 

 personal appearance. 



The Romans possess neither the worth of the Tus- 

 cans, nor the good-natured buffoonery of the Neapoli- 

 tans. The nobles are polite to foreigners, but the 

 trades-people and populace are savage and fraudulent, 

 retaining much of the ancient haughty character, and 

 proud of their descent from the conquerors of the' 

 world. 



The higher ranks throughout Italy are extremely 

 hospitable, so that a good letter of recommendation may 

 carry a traveller from house to house all over the coun- 

 try. Persons of rank among themselves, usually i 

 in their journics from one villa to another without mak- 

 ing use of the inns, which are consequently possessed 

 of very inferior accommodations. The inhabitants, in 

 general, are full of civility to strangers ; and are re- 

 markable for honesty to one another, so that, even in 

 Calabria, the houses arc left entirely open during the 

 absence of the family on their daily avocations. The 

 Italians in genera), are described as dirty in their dress, 

 cooker}-, and persons. 



" The Italians,'* says Semple, referring to the conn- 

 try between I^eghorn and Naples, " are a singular 

 mixture of eagerness and cunning, of mildness and vio- 

 lence, of superstition and irreligion. They are vehe- 

 ment in their gestures on trivial occasions ; but, at the 

 very time that they appear absorbed in the violence of 

 passion, they are full of duplicity, and grow cool in a 

 moment, if they sec any advantage in doing so. They 

 affect to speak with great mildness and appearance of 

 regard, even to an absolute stranger, and yet suddenly 

 break out into violent fits of passion. They will talk 

 lightly of the church, and turn their priests into ridi- 

 cule; but, after uttering an irreligious jest, a sacred 

 awe seems to drive them to the altar, where they re- 

 ,!:e sacrament from the very hand which they have 

 ridiculed. No people that I have yet see.n, descend so < 

 low in order to excite compassion. If they gain their 

 object by any means, they are satisfied ; and, in order to 

 effect this, they fawn upon strangers in a manner which 

 quickly becomes tedious, and even disgusting. They 

 feel with greater accuracy than they reason ; and are 

 more apt to mislead themselves when they take time to 

 deliberate, than when they act from the impulse of the 

 moment. The mildness of their climate inspires them 

 with cheerfulness, and they give themselves up with 

 ardour to every pleasure, even the most trifling; yet 

 their looks are composed, and even grave, and their 

 walk hai nothing in it which indicates levity. In the 

 observance of the matrimonial engagement*, i.o people 

 can be more Inx ; nor is there any country where jea- 

 lousy is so little known, nor indeed where it would be 

 so very useless/' 



A more favourable view is conveyed by the follow- lulitn phjr- 

 mg sketches of Dr. Moore. " In the external deport- 

 went, the Italians have a grave solemnity of manner, 



