650 



MONMOUTHSHIRE. 



Mon- of the Usk and Ebwy. There is another vale called the 

 mouthihire. Vale of Usk, which stretches from beyond Abergaven- 

 "* ""> ~*- f ny along both sides of the river to the foot of Clytha 

 hills. But the most romantic, as well as the least 

 known of the valleys of Monmouthshire, are those which 

 are called the valleys of the Ebwy and Sorwy. Under 

 this description is included the mountainous district 

 watered by the Rumney, and the streams that fall into 

 Vales of the it and the Usk, called the wilds of Monmouthshire. One 

 Kbwy and of these streams bursts through a deep, narrow, and 

 horwjf. woody glen, and is discovered only by its foam glisten- 

 ing through the thick foliage ; this rivulet is crossed 

 by a stone bridge which leads to a narrow and rug. 

 ged path, that winds round the sides of the Beacon 

 mountain ; these are thickly clothed with underwood, 

 and most beautifully adorned with hanging groves of 

 oak, alder, beech, and " the wild rasps twining in the 

 thickets, and the ground covered with the wood straw- 

 berry." The Valley of Ebwyfach, or, as it is called by 

 the natives, the Valley of the Church, is now entered ; 

 it is bounded on the east by a ridge called Milfiehill, 

 which divides it from the parishes of Llanfoist and 

 Trefrechin ; and on the west by the Beacon mountain, 

 which divides it from the Valley of Ebwyfawr. The 

 Beacon mountain, a narrow and lofty ridge, stretches 

 between the two branches of the Ebwy, and termi- 

 nates very near their junction ; the scenery at their 

 junction is uncommonly striking ; on the one side, the 

 great Ebwy rushes through the vale ; on the other, the 

 little Ebwy, foaming through a hollow and narrow glen, 

 emerges from a thick wood. On a bridge over the 

 great Ebwy, whence a path leads up the woody side of 

 the mountain, which bounds the valley, " I remained," 

 says Mr. Cox, " for a considerable time, absorbed in the 

 contemplation of the picturesque objects around me ; 

 objects which recalled to my recollection the milder 

 cast of mountain scenery which I formerly so much 

 admired in the Alps of Switzerland." The features of 

 the vale of Sorwy are more wild and romantic than 

 those of the Ebwy ; it is deeper and narrower. There 

 are several other valleys in this county, but those just 

 described are the most picturesque and most worthy of 

 description: 



Mountains. The mountains harmonize with the valleys, and give 

 effect to the scene. They are seldom indented or 

 notched, and never shapeless. The most remarkable 

 are the Skyrryd, or St. Michael's Mount, the Sugar 

 Loaf, and the Blorenge. The ridge of the Skyrryd is 

 about a mile in length, seldom more than 40 or 50 feet 

 broad, and in some places only 10 or 12. Its insulated 

 situation, abrupt declivity, and cragged fissures, pro- 

 duce a very striking effect, though its elevation is not 

 very considerable. The highest part, according to Ge- 

 neral Roy, is 1498 feet. It is divided into two unequal 

 parts, by a separation which, viewed from the west, 

 seems an enormous chasm. The superstition of the 

 county dates this rent at the crucifixion of our Saviour. 

 Hence the natives generally call it the Holy Mountain. 

 The chasm is not less than 300 feet in breadth. The 

 view from this mountain is very extensive ; in some 

 parts rich and beautiful, in other points picturesque, and 

 even sublime. The Sugar Loaf is higher than the Skyr- 

 ryd, regular and beautiful, and its outline smooth and 

 soft. The highest point rises 1852 feet above the mouth 

 of the Gavenny. The ascent is so extremely easy, that a 

 light carnagemay be driven within lOOpaces of the sum- 

 mit, which is an undulating ridge about J- mile in length, 

 and 200 yards in breadth. The view from it commands 



the counties of Radnor, Shropshire, Brecon, Mon. Mon. 

 mouth, Glamorgan, Hereford, Worcester, Gloucester, mouihshire. 

 Somerset, and Wilts, and of course comprises all varie- '-"Y"'*-' 

 ties of scenery. The Blorenge mountain forms part of 

 the chain which extends from the confines of Brecon 

 to Panteg, below Pontypool. It forms the north-east 

 boundary of the valley, called Avon Lwyd. It enters 

 into the composition of some beautiful landscapes, but 

 cannot bear a comparison with theSkyrrid or Sugar Loaf. 



Another peculiarity of this county consists in its Forest*. 

 woodlands, forests, and chaces, some of which are still 

 of great extent, though most of them have been dimi- 

 nished by grants. The forest of Wentword seems to 

 have been one of the most considerable, and even yet 

 comprises nearly 2170 acres, thickly covered with tim- 

 ber-trees, and underwood. Besides the two grand na- 

 tural divisions of this county formed by the Usk, there 

 is a rich and extensive plain on the shore of the Severn, 

 called Caldicot Level, or the Vale of Troggy, and the 

 level of Wentlog. The former extends from the vil- LeveK 

 lage of Caldicot, nearly the whole way toGoldcliff, and 

 consists of a large tract of land recovered from the sea. 

 Somepartsof the walls, which have been erected at a very 

 great expence, are 12 or 14 feet high, falling back from 

 the sea by a gradual slope. The masonry is flanked by 

 a strong embankment of earth. Near the western ex- 

 tremity rises a promontory almost surrounded by the sea, 

 called Goldcliff. It rises abruptly to the height of about 

 60 feet. In an extent of 16 miles, this rock is the only 

 natural barrier against the encroachments of the sea. It 

 consists of limestone lying horizontally, intersected with 

 siliceous crystallizations above a large bed of mica. 

 The level of Wentlog, like that of Caldicot, is perfect- 

 ly flat, and defended from the encroachments of the sea 

 by embankments. It stretches from east to west be- 

 tween the rivers Usk and Rumney ; and from north to 

 south between the Bristol Channel and a ridge of hills. 

 The ground in both these levels is cut into parallel 

 ditches : in some the water stagnates, in others it runs 

 in streams, which fall into the sea through flood-gates. 

 From this view of the surface of Monmouthshire, it ap- 

 pears that nearly one-third of it is a rock-plain on the 

 shores of the Severn and Bristol Channel ; one-third 

 consists of ground, the surface of which is beautifully 

 variegated, the hillocks being cultivated or woody, and 

 numerous streams running through it ; and " one-third 

 assumes the mildest character of mountains, abounding 

 with lovely valleys." The soil of the whole county is 

 of various kinds, but generally rich and fertile, lying Soil and 

 on limestone. The climate is mild and temperate, ex- Climate. 

 cept on the highest mountains, where it is sometimes 

 very cold. It has been remarked, that the fogs seem 

 to shift periodically ; for some days they rest on the 

 mountains, while the valleys are free from them ; and 

 then suddenly the valleys are exposed to them for some 

 days, and the tops of the mountains are clear. 



The rivers contribute much to the picturesque beau- Kivers. 

 ties of this county. The principal are the Wye, Usk, 

 and the Rumney. The tributary and inferior streams 

 are the Mynnow, the Trothy, the Ebwy, the Avon, the 

 Pill, and Kebby. The Wye is justly deemed the most 

 picturesque river in England. It enters Monmouth- 

 shire near its junction with the Mynnow. The banks 

 of the Wye at this place are rich with wood and ver- 

 dure. A little below it is joined by the Trothy. Be- 

 low Redbrook it forms a grand sweep, flowing into an 

 abyss between two ranges of lofty hills, thickly cover- 

 ed with wood. Still lower down lies the singularly si. 



