A SUMMER RAMBLE AMONG THE HEBRIDES. 119 



rica, but not one inhabited dwelling; while along a black 

 moorj acclivity under the hills on the other side I could 

 see several groupes of turf cottages, with here and there a 

 minute speck of raw-looking corn beside them, that, judging 

 from its colour, seemed to have but a slight chance of ripen- 

 ing. The hill-tops were lost in cloud and storm ; and ever 

 and anon as a heavier shower came sweeping down on the 

 wind, the intervening hollows closed up their gloomy vistas, 

 and all was fog and rhime to the water's edge. Bad as the 

 morning was, however, we could see the people wending their 

 way, in threes and fours, through the dark moor, to the place 

 of worship, a black turf hovel, like the meeting-house in 

 Eigg. The appearance of the Betsey in the loch had been 

 the gathering signal ; and the Free Church islanders three- 

 fourths of the entire population had all come out to meet 

 their minister. 



On going ashore, we found the place nearly filled. My 

 friend preached two long energetic discourses, and then re- 

 turned to the yacht, a " worn and weary man." The studies 

 of the previous day, and the fatigues of the previous night, 

 added to his pulpit duties, had so fairly prostrated his strength, 

 that the sternest teetotaller in the kingdom would scarce have 

 forbidden him a glass of our fifty-year-old Madeira* But even 

 the fifty-year-old Madeira proved no specific in the case. He 

 was suffering under excruciating headache, and had to stretch 

 himself in his bed, with eyes shut but sleepless, waiting till 

 the fit should pass, every pulse that beat in his temples a 

 throb of pain. 



