CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 97 



It cannot be doubted, that, with a favoring climate and 

 soil, an excellent wine can be obtained from plain lands. 

 We know, that, under French manipulations, these wines 

 become famous; yet it is equally certain that the very 

 highest wines can be obtained only where the growth 

 and produce have been quite limited, and the fruit has 

 attained the most concentrated flavor from an abundant 

 amount of light, air, and heat. 



There is no apparent reason why the rule which is 

 observed in Europe should not hold good in this coun- 

 try. Certain conclusions may be drawn from a study and 

 comparison of European methods. We may conclude 

 that the production of grapes for the table and for wine 

 are two distinct purposes. For the table, we require 

 fair, large, and luscious fruit, full of juice, bunches of good 

 size and form, an ornamental as well as a useful fruit. 

 These conditions require a generous growth, which will 

 give a large supply of watery matter at the expense of 

 the high saccharine and vinous quality which is so much 

 prized by connoisseurs. A good home drink can un- 

 doubtedly be made even from the gleanings of our plain 

 vineyards; but if there, is any aim to produce wines 

 which will bear the test of comparison with those of the 



Rhine, of Burgundy, or Tokay, we must learn to account 



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