CULTURE ,OF THE G R A P !:. 287 



fectly dry when gathered. It is now to be mashed in 

 a mill or churn, or in any convenient way by which the 

 skin and pulp maybe completely broken without breaking 

 the seeds. This should be done as speedily as possible 

 after gathering, and before any decay can set in. In 

 order to make a white wine, the first run of the juice is 

 taken : the second run from the press will be of a deeper 

 color; and the third pressing of the skins still deeper, and 

 of an inferior quality. For the manufacture of deep 

 colored clarets in France, the juice and the husks are 

 allowed to ferment together in immense vats ; the husks 

 being frequently pressed down as they rise to the surface. 

 It may not increase the relish for this drink to state, that 

 in order to keep the temperature up to about sixty de- 

 grees, and also to facilitate the mashing and mixing of the 

 husks, many of the workmen are accustomed to strip, and 

 enter for the work. 



In making a sparkling wine, the must is never casked, 

 but is bottled directly from the vat; so that all fermen- 

 tation is in the bottle. Before bottling, the must is al- 

 lowed to settle in vats, the fibrous matter either rising or 

 settling at the bottom. This must is then drawn off, or 

 racked as it is termed, into another vat ; and this process 

 is repeated several times until the wine is clear. It is 



