SPRING PRUNING. 13 



above. Replant from the nursery, where the cuttings have 

 failed to strike root in the vineyard. 



The third year, the vines will produce a few grapes, some- 

 times enough to pay the expenses of attending them. Train 

 two canes to the stake this year, take off laterals, and keep 

 well hoed. 



The vineyard having now commenced to bear, may be 

 considered as fairly established ; and for the fourth and suc- 

 cessive years, the following treatment is generally adopted. 



SPRING PRUNING. 



This is usually done from the middle of February to the 

 first week in March. Some prune in January, and Mr. SCHU- 

 MAN has recommended November and December, as the 

 proper time. No serious injury to the vines, by winter prun- 

 ing, has yet been discovered. The writer pruned many of 

 his vines in November and December, last year, and they 

 escaped unscathed through the hardest winter known in this 

 climate for many years. 



Pruning, the fourth year, requires good judgment, as the 

 standard stem, or stalk, has to be established. 



Select the best shoot or cane of last year, and cut it down 

 to six or eight joints, and fasten it to the adjoining stake in a 

 horizontal position, or bend it over in the form of a hoop or 

 bow, and tie it to its own stake. The ties should be of wil- 

 low. This is the bearing wood. The other cane, cut down 

 to a spur of two or three eyes, to make bearing wood for 

 the next season. 



Mr. SCHUMAN remarks in his treatise, " There are various 

 methods of training adopted. Some tie the shoot up to the 

 stake with two or three ties at proportionate distances. 



" The greater part of the German vine-planters make cir- 

 cular bows with three ties, and another mode is to make half- 

 circle bows. I recommend the latter as the best and proceed 

 to describe it. 



