47 



son-in-law and son of him we had met to honor — some in vehicles and 

 others on hbrseback, left Asheville between 8 and 9 o'clock, a. m., seve- 

 ral hours after the corpse had been taken from its former resting place. 

 It being only twenty miles to Mr. Stepp's, a place of accommodation at the 

 foot of the Black, we easily reached it in time to refresh ourselves with a 

 good dinner, and a rest to prepare us for the more toilsome portion of our 

 journey. The vehicles hitherto used being here dispensed with and bridles 

 and saddles substituted in their place and animals being hired by those 

 of us who had not provided ourselves upon leaving the village, the upward 

 journey was begun about 3 o'clock in the afternoon. By a few, of prefer- 

 ence or necessity, the ascent was made on foot ; but much the greater num- 

 ber were mounted on surefooted horses or mules. 



The winding of the road up the steep sides of the mountain, to make 

 the climbing possible for man and beast, gave to the long line of horsemen 

 quite a striking appearance. Those in front seemed often to be going in a 

 direction just opposite to that of those in their rear and the line was con- 

 stantly assuming the form of the letter S. It was to one at alitle distance 

 a sight strange and picturesque, viewed in connection with the surround- 

 ing beauties of mountain scenery — the majestic oaks and chestnut trees, 

 the undergrowth of mountain laurel and ivy and the large red and yel- 

 low honey-suckles, the overhanging rocks and the little brooks, fresh from 

 the springs a few yards higher up, that met us at every turn. At the ex- 

 piration of about the fourth hour from the time of starting we had made 

 but five miles, but half the distance from the base to the summits and reach- 

 ed the "Mountain House" a little before sunset. This is what may be 

 called a Summer Hotel and is from its situation a somewhat singular place 

 of entertainment, standing, as it does, on or rather against, the side of the 

 mountain at a point where, in some directions the declivity is very preci- 

 pitous. It was, I believe, built at the expense of a wealthy citizen of 

 Charleston, S. C, Mr. Wm. Patton, (lately deceased), who was himself in 

 former years an occasional tenant during the heats of Summer. The furi- 

 ous winds of Winter and the driving rain storms of the Spring would de- 

 ter the stoutest heart from making it a permanent habitation. It is there- 

 fore left to the mercy of the elements for six or eight months of the year 

 and was untenanted at the time of our visit. 



It may not be amiss here to remark, that near the Mountain House ie 

 first observed the change in the character of the growth on the mountain 

 that constitutes its distinguishing feature. The trees and shrubs before 

 mentioned as overhanging the first half of our winding road, at this point, 

 and the corresponding altitude on all sides of the Black, give place to the 

 Balsam, which is the exclusive growth df the mountain tops. It is 



