Putting Up Hay Carrier Tracks 



While a barn is being built and while the shingles or sheeting are within a couple of feet of the comb of 

 the roof, is the best time to install a Hay Carrier Track. At this time it is an easy matter to do the work, 

 as the sheeting forms all the scaffold necessary. To install a Hay Carrier Track after a barn is finished 

 means doing the work from below by scaffold or ladder, depending on the height of the barn. 



The track may be hung perfectly level or it may be given a slight incline, making it lower at the point 

 where the track stop is attached and the hay is elevated. The track should always be hung straight and true, 

 and close up to the peak of the barn, but allowing room enough below rafters for the Carrier to run freely. 

 To do this stretch a line from one end of the barn to the other immediately below the peak of the rafters, 

 and nail the Rafter Brackets to the rafters in a straight line. 



A collar beam should be spiked to the second pair of rafters from 

 each end, in which hooks are to be screwed for Pulleys, as shown 

 in Fig. 617. This will bring the ends of the track within about 

 a foot of the pulleys as shown in the cut. The collar beams may 

 be 2x6, or 4x4 — chamfered off thin at the ends so they can be 

 properly spiked to the rafters. When a piece 2 inches thick is 

 used, an inch piece should be nailed on the back of the center where 

 the screw of the hook goes through, so as to make it 3 inches thick 

 at this place. The collar beams should be about 4 feet long with 

 the ends cut the slant of the rafters, or long enough so the pulley 

 attached to it will let the rope run close to, but not rub on the 

 under side of the track. 



(tslote — It is a poor plan to screw the hook into one of the rafters, as shown in some hay tool catalogs, 

 because in heavy work it is liable to pull out a single rafter.) 



The track should be taken up in sections and hung to the brackets and then spliced together. The 

 Brackets and Track Hangers which support the track may be placed 4 feet apart for light work, but it 

 is better to have a support from every rafter, and for heavy work a hanger and bracket should be put on 

 each side of the rafters where the hay is taken up. 



The bolts in the Hangers and Splice Clamps should be drawn up as tight as possible with a wrench, 

 then strike the head of the bolt with a hammer so as to set it, and tighten up the nuts again. When this 

 is done they will not get loose. 



If the hay is to be taken in at end of barn, the track should be extended out 2' 2 to 3 feet when Fork 

 is used and 4 feet when Slings are used. In case the track is installed before the roof is finished, the best 

 plan is to use a good 2x6 or 4x6 long enough to extend out as far as necessary and back in the barn to the 

 third or fourth rafter. Let this extend between the rafters the same as a ridge pole. On this extension 

 support or ridge pole, use our Ridge Pole Brackets. 



The extension may be covered if desired. Cut a brace to reach from the outer end of the extension 

 to a point on the rafters even with the side of the door and sheet and shingle over to this brace. This 

 not only serves as a roof, but also as a brace for the extension. 



Fig. 617 



About Rope 



Many persons think they should use not less than 1-inch rope on a Hay Carrier. This is a rrustake. 

 Use the best grade of manilla rope and never use it heavier than |-inch in diameter and ^^-inch diameter 

 rope is better. Do not be persuaded to use either a large or cheap grade of rope. Cheap rope is usually 

 hard twisted and kinks badly. In our fifty years' experience with Hay Carriers we have learned that 

 the ?^-inch manilla rope is the best size to use and in no case should larger diameter than |-inch be used. 

 The Pulleys used with Hay Carriers are intended for these sizes of rope and larger will not work so well. 



An inch rope should have not less than a 10-inch pulley, and when used on a smaller pulley the bend 

 will be so short that the strands will wear themselves out rubbing on each other, besides it will cost nearly, 

 if not fully, twice as much as three-quarter rope. According to government tests the following are the 

 approximate weights and strength of new manilla rope: Pounds 



Three-eighths inch trip rope j •^jj' 



Half-inch rope, i2}2 feet weigh 1 pound: strength i'lAo 



Five-eighths rope, 7} 2 feet weigh 1 pound; strength ^ 070 



Three-quarter rope, 6 feet weigh I pound; strength lonn 



Seven-eighths rope, 41^2 feet weigh I pound; strength 7nqn 



One-inch rope, 33^^ feet weigh 1 pound; strength 7,050 



Page Thirty-two 



