AND GENERAL HORTICULTURE. 



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as are attractive for their beauty of foliage, 

 rather than flower, as few plants can be 

 found whose flowers will long remain perfect 

 in the dry atmosphere of our sitting or dining- 

 rooms. The plants best fitted for such pur- 

 poses are found to be Palms, Cordylines, 

 Aspidistras (variegated), Ophiopgon, Antheri- 

 cum vittatum, Crotons and Draceenas, the 

 Screw Pine (Pandanus), etc., for winter, and 

 Caladiums, Coleuses, fancy-leaved Begonias, 

 Petunias, and many others for summer. 

 When flowering plants are used for temporary 

 decorations, Primulas, Cyclamens, Azaleas, 

 Passifloras, Camellias, Mignonette, Sweet 

 Alyssum, Heliotrope, Carnations, Roses, or 

 other flowering plants having fragrance are 

 selected. The boxes used in window gardening 

 are made of a great variety of materials, such as 

 wood, terracotta, iron, rustic or wicker work, 

 etc. But as the box is only a medium to hold 

 the plants, the latter should be the object of 

 attraction, and not the box, so that any ordi- 

 nary box made of pine will answer a tem- 

 porary purpose just as well as an expensive 

 one, as the sides soon become covered up 

 with the drooping or creeping plants. 



The window box should be made of a length 

 to suit the size of the window sill, and from 

 eight to twelve inches wide, with a depth of 

 from four to six inches. On a visit to London 

 some years ago we found that the rivalry of 

 the occupants of houses in window gardening 

 even exceeded that in their door yards, the 

 windows of the houses on each side of the 

 street to four and five stories in height, for 

 miles in length, presenting a scene of blight 

 colors perfectly dazzling, markedly among 

 which were the blue of the Lobelia, the yellow 

 of the golden Moneywort, and the scarlet of 

 the Tropaeolum, forming drooping curtains of 

 these brilliant colors, often to a length suf- 

 ficient to reach the window below. The plants 

 used in arranging the window box are so much 

 a matter of taste that we will not here make 

 suggestions, other than to say that the best 

 effect is had by making the inner row of plants 

 of a bushy nature, say Geraniums, Begonias, 

 Coleus, Heliotrope, etc., interspersed with 

 Ficus, Palms, or other decorative plants ; while 

 for the outer row to droop, Lobelias, Nastur- 

 tiums, Golden Moneywort, Petunias, etc., 

 may be used. Individual taste, however, is 

 sure to govern the selection. 



Wind-Root. A local name for Asclepias tube- 

 rosa. 



Wind Rose. Papaver Argemone and Roemeria 

 hybrida. 



Wine Palm. East Indian, Ph&nix sylvestris. 



Wings. The lateral petals of a Pea flower ; the 

 flat, membraneous appendages of some seeds, 

 as those of many Conifers and the Maples. 



Winter Aconite. See Eranthis. 



Winter-berry, Black Alder. See Prinos and 

 Ilex. 



Winter Bloom. A common name for Hamame- 

 lis Virginica. 



Winter Cherry. A name given to Physalis 

 Alkekengi. 



Winter Cress. (Barbareavulgaris.) This is the 

 common Winter Cress, a plant which is some- 

 times used as a salad, but is rarely cultivated. 

 The species was probably introduced and is 

 quite common in the North and West. 



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Winter Daffodil. Sternbergia lutea. 

 Winter Flowering Plants. The most desira- 

 able plants for winter flowering may be 

 divided into the two sections, usually desig- 

 nated green-house and hot-house plants; 

 the former requiring a night temperature 

 of from forty-five to fifty degrees, while 

 the latter will not thrive in a lower night 

 temperature than from sixty to sixty-five 

 degrees. Whether the plants are grown 

 in the parlor or sitting-room of a private 

 dwelling, or in a green-house, specially con- 

 structed for their culture, the conditions 

 should be as nearly as possible the same; 

 that is a uniformity of temperature and an 

 avoidance of dry atmosphere. It is easy 

 enough in the green-house to get a properly 

 humid atmosphere by sprinkling the paths 

 with water ; but in a room in the dwelling- 

 house, the only thing that can be done is to 

 see that some method of evaporating water to 

 supply a moist atmosphere is attached to the 

 stove, furnace, or whatever may be the 

 source of heat. If plants are kept in a 

 sitting-room or parlor, an east, southeast 

 or south aspect should be chosen. Plants 

 of the class that may be grown at an 

 average temperature of fifty degrees at night 

 are Azaleas, Abutilons, Ageratums, Carna- 

 tions, Cinerarias, Catalonian and Cape Jes- 

 samines, Camellias, Callas, Chorizemas, Gera- 

 niums of all kinds, Hyacinths, Polyanthus, 

 Narcissus, Early Tulips, Cyclamens, Paris 

 Daisies, Fuchsias, Mahernias, Primulas, Ste- 

 vias, Roses and many other species known 

 generally as green-house plants. 



Of the second class, or hot-house plants, we 

 name the following: Begonias, Bouvardias, 

 Clerodendrons, Euphorbias, Epiphyllums 

 Heliotropes, Poinsettias, many of the hardier 

 Orchids, etc. The many species of Palms, 

 Pandanus, Ficus, Crotons, Ferns, and other 

 plants grown for their ornamental foliage, 

 also thrive better in a warm temperature, 

 though many plants will do well in either; 

 but we make this distinction as a guide to 

 those having a choice of temperature, in 

 order that they may select the plants that 

 are best adapted to that at their command. 

 In a green-house, particularly if heated by a 

 flue, there is often a difference of five or ten 

 degrees between one end and the other ; and 

 in such a case the plants named in the first 

 class must be placed at the cool end, and 

 those of the second class at the other. 



One of the most troublesome pests of plants 

 grown in the green-house or the sitting-room 

 in winter is the Aphis, or "Green Fly, " as it 

 is termed. There is no difficulty in getting 

 rid of it in the green-house, when it is sepa- 

 rate from the dwelling ; all that is necessary is 

 to get some tobacco stems (such as are thrown 

 out as refuse, by cigar makers), and sprinkle 

 them with water so that they become slightly 

 damp. About half a pound or so for a green- 

 house twenty -five by twenty feet is placed 

 over a small handful of shavings, only enough 

 to light the dampened tobacco, as too many 

 shavings might injure the plants by smoke. 

 The burned tobacco stems give out a smoke 

 that is quickly fatal to the " Green Fly. " To 

 thoroughly prevent the least appearance of 

 this insect the green-house should be fumi- 

 gated every four or five days. If the green- 

 house is attached to the dwelling, so that the 



