AND GENERAL HORTICULTURE. 



517 



lips, Narcissus, Crocus, etc., should now be 

 planted, hardy bulbs transplanted where neces- 

 sary, and preparations made for winter. 



Dahlias, Tuberoses, Gladiolus, Cannas, Cal- 

 adiums, Tigridias, and all tender bulbs or tubers 

 that are planted in the spring, should be taken 

 up by the end of the month, dried and 

 stowed away in some dry place free from frost 

 during winter. 



FRUIT GARDEN. All transplanting should be 

 attended to early this month if not already done, 

 to give the trees a chance to get well estab- 

 lished before winter. If planting is deferred to 

 the last of the month, the ground around the 

 roots should be mulched to the thickness of 

 three or four inches with leaves, straw or 

 rough manure, as a protection to the roots 

 against frost. Strawberries that have been 

 layered in pots may yet be planted, and all run- 



ners carefully removed from earlier plantings. 

 VEGETABLE GARDEN. Toward the last of 

 the month Beets, Parsnips, Carrots, Sweet Po- 

 tatoes, and all other roots not designed to be 

 left in the ground during winter, should be dug 

 and housed or pitted. Celery will now be in 

 full growth, and will require close attention to 

 earthing up, and during the last part of the 

 month the first lot may be stored away in 

 trenches for winter. (See " Celery.") Lettuce 

 for winter use, if planted in cold-frames or in 

 the green-house, will be ready for use by Christ- 

 mas. Cabbage and Cauliflower plants, from 

 seed sown about the middle of last month, 

 should now be pricked out in cold frames, and 

 Rhubarb and Asparagus, if wanted for winter 

 use, should be taken up and stored free from 

 frost, to be forced in the green-house or pit, as de- 

 sired, duringwinter. (See "F orcingVegetables.") 



NOVEMBER. 



GREEN-HOUSE AND WINDOW PLANTS. There 

 is nothing so prejudicial to the well-being of 

 green-house plants as too much fire-heat early in 

 the season. Though frost may now be expected 

 and must be guarded against when necessary, 

 it is better to follow the advice given last month, 

 and close up the ventilators early, thus shut- 

 ting in the natural heat, which, however, should 

 not be allowed to fall under fifty degrees, 

 unless for Camellias, Azaleas, Carnations, etc., 

 which will succeed better if kept at a night 

 temperature of forty degrees. The first batches 

 of Roman Hyacinths, Early Tulips, etc., may 

 now be started along gently. Insects, especially 

 on the young growths of Roses and many "soft- 

 wooded plants," will soon get troublesome 

 unless kept rigidly in check. Where fire-heat is 

 necessary be careful to keep up the proper sup- 

 ply of moisture by syringing, sprinkling the 

 paths, etc. In the window, Chysanthemums 

 will be at their best during this month, and 

 Primulas and Cyclamens beginning to show 

 flower. All plants must be kept clear of insects, 

 and where the plants are not too large one of 

 the best modes of doing so is to invert the pot, 

 dipping the head of the plant in water heated 

 to 140 degrees for a few seconds. This not only 

 kills green fly, red spider, and other insects, 

 but removes all dust, etc., from the leaves. 



FLOWER GARDEN. Where Chrysanthemums 

 have not been hurt by frost the flower garden 

 should still be showy, and even where protection 

 has to be given them they may often be made to 

 give an excellent show during the early part of 

 the month ; otherwise there is little left to do but 

 to clear off dead stalks, straw up tender Roses, 

 vinos, etc., and wherever there is an opportunity 

 to dig up the borders, as it will greatly facili- 

 tate spring work. All evergreens are much 

 benefited at this season by a top-dressing of fresh 

 loam or well-rotted manure. In the flower gar- 

 den variety is always pleasing, and now is a good 

 time to study how to have it arranged differently 

 next season at little cost. It is often as easy 

 and as pleasing to have change at small expense 

 as when a large sum is involved. All beds where 

 Hyacinths or other fall bulbs have been planted, 

 had better be covered with rough litter or leaves 

 to the depth of two or three inches. It is always 

 risky to spread manure on lawns, unless it is 

 thoroughly rotted. If such can be procured a 

 good top-dressing applied now will show its 

 good effect the following season. 



FBUIT GARDEN. Grape vines and fruit trees 

 may be pruned any time this month, and if wood 

 of the vine is wanted for cuttings, or cions of 

 fruit trees for grafts, they should be tied in 

 small neat bunches, and buried in the ground 

 until spring. The mulching recommended for 

 Strawberries may also be put on during the last 

 of the month, especially in cold localities. It is, 

 however, generally not advisable to apply it till 

 just before winter sets in, in December. 



VEGETABLE GARDEN. All roots required for 

 winter use that have not already been dug and 

 housed, should be attended to by the middle of 

 the month, or in this latitude they may get 

 frozen in until spring if left longer. Celery that 

 is to be stored for winter use should be put 

 away before the end of the month in all places 

 north of Richmond, Va. South of that it may 

 be left, in most places, in the rows where 

 grown, if covered up. (See "Celery.") Asparagus 

 beds should have a heavy dressing of rough 

 manure three or four inches thick, and all 

 Onions, Cabbage, Sprouts, Spinach or Lettuce 

 plants that are outside should be covered with 

 two or three inches of leaves, salt hay or straw, 

 to protect them during winter. Cabbages that 

 have headed may be usually preserved against 

 injury by frost until the middle of next month, 

 by simply pulling them up and packing them 

 close together in a dry spot in the open field 

 with the heads down and roots up. On the ap- 

 proach of cold weather in December they should 

 be covered up with leaves as high as the tops 

 of the roots ; or, if the soil is light, it may be 

 thrown over them if leaves are not convenient. 

 Cabbages so packed will keep until March, if 

 the covering has not been put on too early. 

 If only a few are grown, these and Cauliflower 

 may be hung up in a cool cellar, and will keep 

 in good condition for weeks. The cold frames 

 where Cabbage, Lettuce or Cauliflower plants 

 have been planted will now require regular 

 ventilation by lifting up the sashes in warm 

 days, and on the approach of very cold weather, 

 straw mats or shutters will be a great protection 

 to the plants. For the Cauliflower, this protec- 

 tion is absolutely necessary in this latitude. 

 All vacant ground should be rough dug, plowed 

 or subsoiled whenever practicable to destroy 

 insects, and have the soil well mellowed for 

 crops in spring. 



