Gardens for Small Country Houses. 



XXXV111. 



the ground. The entrance path is square with the road, and the house door cuts 

 across an angle formed by the meeting of the main block and the office wing. The 

 house, standing diagonally to the road, allows of a longer extension of the flower- 

 borders and the circular garden at the end than could otherwise have been put 

 upon the site. Kitchen garden and orchard are conveniently placed, and the 

 remaining space becomes a useful paddock. 



When the site is a bare field, or any place without individuality, the designer 

 has a free hand, but will be wise in choosing something that is definite, so as 

 to give that precious quality of character. It can only be created by simplicity of 

 aim ; by doing one thing at a time as well and distinctly as possible, and so avoiding 

 complexity and confusion. For instance, if it is desired to treat the ground of a small 

 site of about an acre and a-half as a garden of hardy flowers it may be conveniently 

 laid out as in Fig. xxii. The lawn next the terrace has a shady retreat at each end, 



and the wide turf 

 path leading to 

 the further cross 

 path gives the im- 

 pression of the 

 whole space being 

 given to pleasure 

 garden, while there 

 are still two good 

 plots for kitchen 

 garden, completely 

 screened, on each 

 side, and space for 

 a play 1 a w n 

 between the house 

 and the road. 

 Tennis players 

 prefer a ground 

 whose longer axis 

 runs north and 

 south, but in this 

 case the exigencies 

 of the site oblige 



the lawn to run east and west. Such a garden can be worked by a single-handed 

 gardener, with possibly occasional help at pressing times. The green parlours on 

 the front lawn are made with weeping elm, a tree not so much used as it deserves. 

 A slight framework of something like split chestnut is wanted at first to guide 

 the branches laterally to form the roof. As they grow, and then hang down the 

 sides, a complete shelter is formed in a few years. 



Yew and holly hedges, such as are shown in this garden, are necessarily costly. 

 The best size to plant, in the case of yew, is from two and a-half feet to three feet, 

 at a cost of five pounds a hundred, putting them eighteen inches apart. Holly of the 

 same height would cost a little more, but the price would be about the same for 

 bushy plants a little under two feet high a good size to begin with. To make a 

 thick hedge, well furnished to the bottom, yew should have its yearly growth tipped 

 at the ends by at least one-third of the length. Hollies will not want any trimming 

 for the first few years. Such hedges, in favourable conditions, would take from 



FIG. XXVIII. THE BORMY HOUSE, WALTON HEATH! APPROACH FROM GOLF CLUB. 



