228 THE GARDENS OF ITALY. 



descending into a hollowed-out, moat-like channel, from which the land slopes up on the 

 opposite side. The grounds are, therefore, absolutely isolated and unapproachable, and can 

 only be entered from the castle and by one other gate. In the Cardinal's time the woods 

 at the back were full of deer, wild boar and game, and miniature hunting parties often took 

 place. 



The splendour of Caprarola was short, and for more than a hundred and fifty years now it 

 has been practically untenanted. In the days of Cardinal Alessandro and his successor, 

 Odoardo, great state was kept. In 1596 there was a theatre in the garden, and Liberati's play, 

 " Gli Intrighi d' Amore," was acted here. After Odoardo 's death the ducal seat was moved to 

 Parma, and by 1650 much of the beautiful furniture had been taken there too. The male line 

 became extinct in January, 1731, with Antonio Farnese, Duke of Parma, and Caprarola was left 

 as dowry to his niece Elizabeth, who had married Philip V, King of Spain and Naples. By 

 command of these monarchs, the whole palace was put into thorough order, the doors and 

 windows repaired, and the roof entirely renewed and supplied, at great expense, with lead 

 conduits. This accounts in great measure for the good condition in which the palace remains. 

 The Queen conceded its use to Cardinal Acquaviva, Archbishop of Monreale, Protector of the 

 Two Sicilies, and in Rome the vigilant Minister of His Majesty the King of Naples. Acquaviva 

 also did a good deal in the way of restoration, mending stucco ornamentation, retouching and 

 protecting the decaying frescoes, and, moreover, he refurnished the whole in a style which 

 the somewhat fulsome Sebastiani pronounces to be " worthy of his great soul." He entertained 

 continually summer parties of princes, clerics and nobility, in what, to quote our chronicler 

 once more, " was esteemed the most artistic, commodious, and best decorated palace in the 

 whole world." It still belongs to the ruined Bourbon family. 



Many are the noble guests who have been entertained at Caprarola. San Carlo Borrommeo 

 stayed here for a few days in 1580. It was on that occasion that he made the speech to the 

 Cardinal which is related in connection with the Villa Lante ; but even he was penetrated 

 with the loveliness of Caprarola, and said to his host, ' What must Paradise be like ! ' 

 Gregory XIII was the guest of Cardinal Alessandro in 1585. His attendant cardinals were 

 lodged in the rooms over the stable, from which a special passage was made, communicating 

 with the main building. The Chief Magistrate and all the citizens were at the gates to 

 present the keys and to pay their homage to the Vicar of Christ, who in return presented the 

 silver cross borne by his cross-bearer and a noble chalice to the cathedral, where they are still 

 preserved, besides which he blessed the town and its inhabitants from the palace windows and 

 enriched them with copious Indulgences. Among the attractions of the stately pageant was a 

 procession of a hundred maidens, dressed in white, carrying olive branches and clashing cymbals. 

 Cardinal Odoardo was the host of Clement VIII, and Sebastiani gives a further account of a visit 

 paid by Queen Christina of Sweden in December, 1655, when she stopped at Caprarola, with 

 a splendid suite, on her way to Bracciano, and was magnificently entertained by Duke Ranuccio. 

 A feast and fireworks were given in her honour, she was shown all over the palace, and 

 remarked of the Sala di Mappamondo that it deserved to be kept under a glass case. Gazing 

 from the windows of the Hall of Hercules, lost in wonder at the beauty of the prospect, she 

 exclaimed, " I dare not speak the name of Jesus, lest I should break the spell." 



The Anno Santo 1700 saw the flying visit of the reigning Duke, Antonio, Prince of Parma, 

 the last direct descendant of the great Farnese House. His vassals, who scarcely knew him by 

 sight, assembled to greet him, wild with delight and loyalty. He was moved to tears, made a 

 touching speech, and went his way, to be seen no more at Caprarola. 



The exiled James Stuart was welcomed royally by Duke Francesco in 1714, and as the 

 Duke took leave of " His Majesty, the King of England," he declared that the palace had 

 acquired fresh lustre from his august presence. In October, 1739, Kasimir Vasa, Prince of 

 Poland, and the Elector of Saxony, paid a visit incognito to Cardinal Acquaviva, and were 

 shown the castle, where a choice assemblage of savants and Jesuits had come to meet them. 

 One of the last notable guests was Prince Charles Edward, the Pretender, who was a visitor in 

 1740, and Sebastiani, who mentions his coming, was overpowered at the honour of being 

 allowed to house some of the Prince's suite. 



