VILLA D'ESTE, CERXOBBIO, A\D VILLAS ON LAKE COMO. 361 



Leaving this enchanted spot, as the boat returns to Bellagio Balbianello appears likr a 

 headless sphinx stretching out half across the lake, cut out in black basalt against the distant 

 cliffs beyond. High above shines the preternatural brightness of snow-clad pinnacles 

 illuminated by the hidden sun. Immense masses of dark clouds float slowly over the 

 surrounding mountains, while a chill wind ripples the silvery surface of the lake. The sky is 

 torn by long, slanting lines of distant rainstorms. The boatmen stretch at their oars to escape 

 the coming tempest. A great black barge floats proudly by, its white sail turned to yellow in 

 the extraordinary radiance of the mountain snows and the glistening reflection of the lake. 



The Villia Serbelioni is now a hotel, a much extended building, which, however, pleases 

 by its simple character and long, low lines. It occupies a very fine position on a neck between 

 Como and Lecco, being ledged up in the hillside with a thick wooded background. It is well 

 terraced and has commanding views. From Bellagio the ascent is continuous by long, winding 

 roads, which, being planted, have the character of a park. 



The Villa Melzi was erected in 1810 1815, and now belongs to the Duchess of Melzi. It is 

 on the shore of Lake Corno, and has a landing-place. There is a family chapel at. the entrance. 

 The house is not particularly interesting : a marble tablet at the entrance commemorates the 

 services of Vice-President Francesco Melzi and of his nephew to the locality. Two marble 

 busts of Bonaparte's mother and wife, placed on the walls of the orangery, which is close to the 

 house, recall the epoch of the First Empire. 



The Villa Giulia has one face to Como and the other to Lecco. The long front fa9ade is 

 rather dull, but the back, facing towards Lecco, having advanced wings, central loggia and a 

 visible tile roof, possesses more of the character of an Italian villa. The lay-out of the garden 

 at the back provides a large lawn, balustraded on one side and bounded by an avenue on the 

 other. In front it is terraced down to the lake, and a long ascent of steps up from the little 

 harbour provides a good vista. Mimosa, oleander and wellingtonia trees distinguish the 

 grounds ; camellias, azaleas and rhododendrons give strong notes of colour. A grassway lined 

 with tall cypress trees which runs down to the waters of Como, near the little church of 

 San Giovanni, lingers in the memory as a characteristic vision of the lake district of Northern 

 Italy (Fig. 379). A. T. B. 



