JFlotoers anti JFrufts of Autumn. 309 



parsley and young onions and a modicum (filet) 

 of vinegar." Here, as is observed in the recipe 

 of Mori lies a I Italienne, " the trouble is trifling 

 and the succulence is extreme." 



The crisp air of October piques the appetite, 

 and with the advent of the mushroom season 

 one may be excused from turning for a moment 

 from the flowers to the flesh-pots. There is a 

 freshness about the " Petite Cuisine " that is 

 truly delightful. Most of the very numerous 

 books devoted to French cookery are so elaborate 

 as to be practically useless. Pierre Blot's is an 

 exception, and did much to simplify many dishes 

 of merit. Baron Brisse has gone still further 

 and contributed a gastronomic harmony that de- 

 serves to be translated into every language. His 

 touch is so light ; his faults are so few. Brillat 

 Savarin was a cook of acknowledged ability. 

 His " Physiology of Taste," however, is a mono- 

 graph on the merits and etiquette of gastronomy 

 rather than a practical guide to the preparation 

 of the dishes themselves. Quaintness and sim- 

 plicity are one of the charms of the " Petite 

 Cuisine," wherein a menu is given for every day 

 in the year. It is almost Lamb dressed in white 

 cap and marmiton who presides at the range. 

 Spring comes to Baron Brisse not with the first 

 primroses, but with the first peas, and autumn 



