atntr ifrufts of &utumn. 311 



fertility of his resources is nowhere better illus- 

 trated than in his resurgam of a leg of mutton. 

 " A roast leg of mutton," he truly observes, 

 " when it is perfect as to quality, properly hung, 

 and properly cooked, is a gift from heaven ; but 

 one finds it thus so rarely. A large gigot once 

 cooked," he continues, " is supposed by house- 

 keepers to be useless thereafter unless served 

 cold or stewed. These ladies are mistaken ; it 

 is easy to present a leg of mutton on the table 

 twice in the same conditions of excellence, and 

 as intact in appearance the second time as the 

 first. 



" Gigot de mouton roti rechaufft. The 

 gigot having been served once, and carved hori- 

 zontally from one side only, wrap it in a piece of 

 buttered paper and place on the spit. When 

 well heated, lay it on a platter upon a generous 

 purte of potatoes, the carved portion under- 

 neath ; moisten gigot and purte with a portion 

 of its juice which has been kept in reserve and 

 heated without boiling, and serve." So much 

 of our happiness here below depends upon the 

 cook and the gravy ! As in gardening, so in 

 cooking " Ce nest pas sans peine quon gagne 

 le del! " 



To return to our mushrooms. Quantities of 

 edible species exist in the fields and woods 



