DESERT JOURNEYS. 319 



tent and enters with the dignity of a king. He is the chief of the 

 camel-drivers (Sheikh el Djemali), to whom we, the travellers, had 

 sent a messenger, asking him to provide us with the necessary 

 guides, drivers, and camels. 



" Peace be with you," he says on entering, and lays his hand on 

 his mouth, his forehead, and his heart. 



" Peace be with thee, O Sheikh," we answer, " the mercy of God 

 and his blessing." 



" Great has been my desire to see you, ye strangers, and to learn 

 your wishes," he assures us, as he takes his seat on a cushion in the 

 place of honour at our right hand. 



" May God, the Almighty, reward thy goodness, O Sheikh, and 

 bless thee," we answer; and we order our servants to bring him 

 coffee and a freshly lit pipe before serving ourselves. 



With half -shut eyes he comforts his mortal body with the coffee 

 and his immortal soul with the pipe; and thick clouds of smoke 

 veil his expressive features. There is almost perfect stillness in the 

 tent, which is pervaded with the fragrance of the exquisite Djebelit 

 tobacco and a thin smoke by no means unpleasant. At last we think 

 that we may venture to begin business without violating any of the 

 rites of hospitality. 



" Is it well with thee, O Sheikh?" 



" The Giver of all Good be praised, it is well with your servant. 

 And how is it with thee?" 



" To the Lord of all be honour and glory, it is well with me. 

 Great was our longing to see thee, O Sheikh." 



" May God in His compassion fulfil your desire and bless you. 

 Are ye in your state of health well content?" 



' Glory be to Allah and to His Prophet, on whom is His grace." 



" Amen, be it as thou hast said." 



Fresh pipes revive the immortal soul; renewed, almost inter- 

 minable courtesies are interchanged; and at last the rigid con- 

 ditions of etiquette have been fulfilled, and it is permissible to turn 

 to business matters. 



"O Sheikh, with the help of the All-merciful, I would travel 

 through this stretch of desert." 



