354 FROM NORTH POLE TO EQUATOR. 



is not the slave but the companion, the friend of its master, the 

 playmate of his children. Proud, spirited, and even savage in the 

 open desert, it is as quiet as a lamb in the tent; it seems altogether 

 inseparable from its master. 



In all the deserts which are, in name at least, under the sway 

 of the Khedive of Egypt, the Bedouins no longer fill the role which 

 was theirs in earlier times, and still belongs to them in Arabia and in 

 North-west Africa. For between them and the Egyptian govern- 

 ment there is a strict treaty which binds them to allow caravans to 

 pass through their haunts unmolested. Thus robberies in the desert 

 are of the rarest occurrence, and an encounter with the Bedouins 

 raises the less apprehension, since these children of the desert are 

 usually the owners of the hired camels. At the same time the true 

 lords of the waste still love to cling to the old customs and to retain 

 a semblance of their dominion, so that it is prudent before setting 

 out on a desert journey to claim safe-conduct from some recognized 

 chief. With this in possession, an encounter took form somewhat 

 as follows. 



One of the sunburnt horsemen sprang forward from the troop, 

 and turned to the leader or head of our caravan. 



"Peace be with thee, O stranger!" 



" And with thee, O chief, be the grace of God, His mercy, and 

 His compassion!" 



" Whither journey ye, sirs?" 



"To Belled-Aali, O Sheikh." 



" Do ye journey under protection?" 



"We journey under the safe -conduct of his Excellency, the 

 Khedive." 



"And no other?" 



" Also Sheikh Soliman, Mohammed Cheir Allah, Ibn Sidi Aulad 

 Aali, has granted us protection and peace." 



" Then are ye welcome and blessed." 



"The Giver of all blessings bless thee and thy father, O chief!" 



"Have ye need of ought? My men will supply it. In Wadi 

 Ghitere are our tents, and ye are welcome there if ye seek rest. 

 If not, may Allah grant a prosperous journey!" 



