358 FROM NORTH POLE TO EQUATOR. 



through the country of the rapids with open eye and receptive 

 heart, who in his frail boat engages, wherever possible/ in the 

 struggle with the furiously foaming waves, will have his whole 

 life enriched with precious memories. For never will the im- 

 pressive spectacle that his eye has looked on fade from his mental 

 vision, never will the sublime melody the stream has sung in his 

 ear cease to echo in his soul. Such, at least, is my experience, and 

 I have journeyed through the rocky valley of Nubia on land and 

 on water, up the river and down, contending with the waves, ay, 

 and with hunger and want, and looking down on the rapids from 

 the tops of high cliffs as well as from the camel's back. 



It is customary to speak of three cataracts. Each consists of a 

 series of rapids, which, for about a mile, make navigation in the 

 highest degree difficult and dangerous. At the first cataract there 

 is properly but one rapid; taking the second and third together 

 there are about thirty which the Nubian boatmen call by special 

 names. There are no waterfalls which make navigation of any 

 kind impossible, not at least on the regular route where, in addition 

 to passing vessels, there ply boats specially built and equipped for 

 the rapids. 76 



When the traveller in his progress up the sacred river has 

 traversed the north-easterly tract where the river is hemmed in 

 between the Rocks of the Chain (Jebel Silsileh), the scenery 

 changes abruptly. Behind him lies Egypt, in other words the low- 

 lying valley, broadening seawards into a boundless plain; before 

 him rises the rocky threshold of Nubia. The contrast is most 

 striking. Monotony is replaced by diversity. It is indeed true 

 that even the scenery of Egypt presents many a picture which 

 is stimulating to the eye and refreshing to the soul; it is true 

 that its beauty is enhanced, especially in the morning and evening 

 hours, by the wondrous brilliance of southern light; but taken 

 as a whole it seems monotonous, for everywhere the prospect is 

 alike, whether the eye rests on rocks of sandstone and limestone 

 by the margin of the valley, or takes a wider survey over the 

 river and the fields. One and the same picture, with little variety, 

 is repeated a hundred times: hills and fruitful plains, river-banks 



