NUBIA AND THE NILE RAPIDS. 387 



will not destroy, and it does help. The boat oscillates violently 

 on the rock; its prow and stern dip deep in the water; but suddenly 

 there is a whirl, and once more it is borne on through the surging 

 current. Some of the crew row,. others bale out the water, as do 

 two women journeying with them, others hammer, and plug, and 

 caulk in the attempt to repair the damage done. Half-full of water, 

 . scarce keeping afloat at all, the boat reaches the shore and is emptied 

 of her cargo. But half of this, consisting of gum-arabic, is spoilt, 

 and the owner, a poor merchant, tears his beard, moaning, lament- 

 ing, weeping, and cursing the two women passengers. The two 

 women are to blame for all. How could they, who brought ruin 

 to the first man in paradise, bring any blessing to faithful Mussul- 

 mans? Woe, woe upon the women and all their kind! 



Next day the bark is repaired, new caulked, and reloaded; it 

 speeds on with the rest to the next rapids, passes through these with- 

 out further mischance, and reaches the fertile valley of middle Nubia, 

 which is free from rocks and gives a hospitable welcome to every 

 voyager. The cares, lately so grievous, are as soon forgotten ; like 

 children, the brown men laugh and joke, and drink with content 

 great draughts of palm wine and merieza. Much too quickly for 

 their taste does the stream bear the boat through this happy land. 



Again the desert spreads its golden-yellow sand over the rocky 

 banks; again rocky islands narrow, divide, and impede the river; 

 the barks are entering the second group of rapids. One after 

 another the dangerous currents, the dreaded whirlpools, the peril- 

 ous straits and corners, are safely passed and left behind; only 

 the last and wildest of the rapids lie between the boats and the 

 palmy Wady Haifa. And below that village all is smooth sailing 

 except at one place below Philse, where the river is once more 

 broken up by rocks. Above these last rapids Gaskol, Moedyana, 

 Abu-sir, and Hambol which are truly dreadful, the boats seek for 

 a quiet bay; and here all encamp to gain strength for the work and 

 warfare, cares and trials of the coming day. The northerners also 

 enjoy the prospect of a quiet night's rest. 



Night draws its veil over the desert land. The rushing waves 

 thunder in the rocky valley; the stars are reflected in the peaceful 



