388 FROM NORTH POLE TO EQUATOR. 



creek; the blossoming mimosas make the shore fragrant. An old 

 gray-haired Reis, born and bred among the rapids, approaches the 

 strangers from the north. A snow-white beard ennobles his im- 

 pressive features; his flowing cloak suggests a priest's robe. "Sons 

 of strangers," he says, "men from the land of the Franks, difficult 

 things have ye overcome along with us, but there is harder still 

 before you. I am a child of this land, seventy years has the sun 

 shone upon me, and at last he has whitened my hair: I am an old 

 man, and ye might be my children. Therefore take ye heed to my 

 warning, and draw back from what ye propose to accompany us 

 on the morrow. Witless ye go to the danger, but I know it. Had 

 ye seen, as I have seen, those rocks which bar the way of the 

 waves; did ye know, as I know, how these waves storm and rage 

 for entrance and passage, how they overwhelm the rocks, and hurl 

 themselves roaring into the depths below, ye would see that only 

 the grace of God, whom we praise and glorify, can guide our poor 

 boat aright, ye would yield to me. Would not the heart of your 

 mother break should the All-merciful refuse us His compassion? 

 Ye will not stay? Then may the grace of the Father of mercies be 

 with us all." 



Before sunrise the shore becomes a scene of activity. Devoutly 

 as before the boatmen offer the prayer of the dawn. Serious, 

 experienced steersmen, who know the river well, and young, strong- 

 limbed, adventurous oarsmen, offer their services to the ancient. 

 Carefully he chooses the most skilful steersmen and the strongest 

 oarsmen; he sets three men to the rudder; and then he gives orders 

 to start. "Men and sons of the land, children of the river, pray 

 the Fatiha," he orders. And all repeat the words of the first Sura 

 of the Koran. "Praise and honour to the Lord of the world, the 

 All-merciful, He who ruleth at the day of judgment. Thee would 

 we serve, to Thee would we pray, that Thou wouldest guide us in 

 the way that is right, in the way of those who enjoy Thy favour, 

 and not in the way of those with whom Thou art displeased." 

 "Amen, my children, in the name of the All-merciful ! Let go the 

 sail, and bend to the oars." With rhythmic stroke these dip into 

 the water. 



