68 Transplanting. 



where so many fail. Some dig little circles about their trees, which 

 is scarcely better. The whole surface must be cultivated. It is for 

 this reason that trees often do best set in spring because in one 

 case the soil settles, hardens, and crusts through winter, but is left 

 mellow after spring setting. This difference could not exist if the 

 mellowing of the soil were properly attended to. 



When the soil is a heavy clay, and holds water like a tub, tender 

 trees are in great danger from autumn transplanting, unless provi- 

 sion is made for draining the holes, which may be effected by run- 

 ning a deep furrow from one hole to the other, along the line of 

 trees, and using brush, corn-stalks, or straw, as a temporary under- 

 drain for the water to soak away. 



Transplanting may be performed in winter, whenever the ground 

 is open and the air above freezing ; but roots which are frozen while 

 out of the ground, will perish unless they are buried before thaw- 

 ing. 



The size for transplanting must vary with circumstances. Five 

 to six feet high is commonly large enough, but those much larger 

 may be successfully removed if they have been previously prepared 

 by shortening the long roots to induce the emission of a mass of 

 smaller fibres near*the centre or stem. This is done one year pre- 

 viously, by running a spade into the earth in^i circle about the foot 

 of the stem, if the tree yet stands in the nursery, or by cutting a cir- 

 cular trench around the tree if it is a large standard in open ground. 



On a review of the essential requisites for successful transplant- 

 ing, they may be summed up briefly as follows : 



1. A previous preparation of a rich deep bed of mellow earth to 

 receive the roots, and land which cannot be water-soaked. 



2. Removing the tree with as little mutilation of the roots as 

 practicable. 



3. Paring off the bruised parts. 



4. Shortening-in the head, in a greater or less degree (before the 

 buds swell), to correspond with the necessary loss of roots. 



5. Immersing the roots in mud. 



6. Filling the fine earth carefully among the roots, spreading 

 them all out with the fingers. 



7. Planting no deeper than before. 



8. Staking or embanking, when necessary, to prevent injury by 

 the wind. 



9. Watering the stems and branches only, before the appearance 

 of the leaf. 



10. Mulching, where danger of midsummer drouth is feared. 



