PRUNING. 



55 



done at any time during the winter when there is no frost in 

 the wood. Pruning tools will break much easier when the wood 

 is frosty. The winter is often the slack season in fruit districts 

 and the work can be done cheaper then. Some pruning may be 



done at the end of the 

 growing season in late 

 summer, but this is apt 

 to start a late fall growth 

 which is objectionable in 

 the colder districts. 



Cut Close and Clean. 

 First, make a study of 

 the tree to be pruned and 

 then follow some defin- 



Fig. 8.-Effect of pruning. a.-Scar ite P lan to train that 

 from a limb properly removed, after tree. The best orchard- 

 two years, b. Stub left from care- . . , . . , . . . . 

 less pruning. ist obtainable should 



do the work. All cuts 



should be made with sharp tools and close to the shoulder. 

 Stubs should never be left as they will not heal over and only 

 cause decay in the tree. In making the cut, if it be a large limb, 

 saw from the bottom up a short distance, then take the saw out 

 and saw down so as to meet the under cut. This will prevent 

 the limb splitting off and 

 causing serious injury to 

 the tree. Always make a 

 clean sharp cut. It will 

 heal much quicker than 

 a rough, bruised or jag- 

 ged one. 



Paint the Cut. It is a 

 good plan to apply a 

 thick white lead paint to 

 any wounds over an inch 

 in diameter as this keeps 

 the wood from drying 

 out. Paint only the 

 wounded part. Grafting 



ct. 



Fig. 9. Result of cutting too far from 

 trunk, a. Section showing stub, 

 b. Decay from long stub penetrat- 

 ing heart of tree. 



