198 OCEAN TO OCEAN ON HORSEBACK. 



varied attractions. St. Paul's Cathedral — Episcopa- 

 lian — a handsome structure of brownstone, ivy-grown 

 and picturesque, from whose walls in summer comes 

 the sound of birds, lies almost centrally among a hun- 

 dred others, and not far awav is the Roman Catholic 

 house of worship, the dignified bit of Gothic archi- 

 tecture which they have named St. Joseph's. 



One of my favorite haunts here is the quiet, carpetless 

 " Historical Rooms,'^ from whose walls the Indian war- 

 riors who helped make Buffalo's history look down in 

 unchanging stolidity. Not least among these is Red 

 Jacket, who forms such a striking figure in the city's 

 traditions. An amusing incident which his picture 

 recalls is that of Lafayette on his return from his West- 

 ern tour in 1824. Among the preparations that were 

 being made for his reception was the guarding, by an 

 especial committee, of their "aboriginal lion," who 

 was a trifle too fond of his " firewater " and who was 

 to be the leading orator of the day. When the ap- 

 pointed time arrived, so the story goes, the sachem 

 was led upon the platform in all his conscious dignity. 

 A long conversation between him and the great 

 Frenchman followed, through an interpreter, whom 

 Red Jacket employed upon formal occasions; in the 

 course of which the Indian complimented the General 

 upon his youthful appearance. " Time has left you a 

 fresh countenance, and hair to cover your head," said 

 he, " while as for me — see ! " and he took off the scarf 

 that was wound about his own bald crown. This 

 provoked a laugh among the spectators who knew 

 that Lafayette wore a wig. When Red Jacket was 

 made aware of the fact, he added with ready wit that 



