330 OCEAN TO OCEAN ON HORSEBACK. 



place, and then caught an early train for Grand 

 Rapids, where, finding that George had made un- 

 usually good arrangements, I spoke in Luce's Hall to 

 one of the largest audiences which greeted me in 

 Michigan, General W. P. Innes, well known in 

 Grand Army circles and a mason of high rank, intro- 

 ducing me. A large and strongly executed painting 

 of the Battle of Lookout Mountain, stretching across 

 the rear of the platform, made a striking effect and 

 gave zest to my reference to the War for the Union. 



My reception at this place was so hearty that 1 

 should have enjoyed a longer visit; but plans already 

 laid prevented. I knew the town itself well, for I 

 had previously been there. It is full of interest both 

 on account of its past history and its present activity. 

 The city lies on both sides of the Grand River and 

 seems to be hedged in by the great bluffs that reach 

 along at the water edge of the valley two miles apart. 

 Below is a stratum of limestone rock, forming the bed 

 of the river, for about a mile and a lialf with a descent 

 of eighteen feet causing the rapids and supplying 

 the water-power. Gypsum is quarried here in large 

 quantities, and this industry supplemented by manu- 

 factures and fruit culture gives it its commercial im- 

 portance. Perhaps its most striking peculiarity is to 

 be found in the large proportion of Hollanders who 

 swell the population. Their churches, their news- 

 papers and their general thrift give them a high 

 standing in the community, and what they have ever 

 been accorded — a reputation for being loyal and enter- 

 prising citizens. 



In 1760 there was a very different state of things 

 here. The Ottawa Indians had a large village below 



