A TWELFTH ON THE EQUATOR 49 



our way, nothing more was seen. The grilling we 

 endured in that noontide-hour's hunt ! Vertical rocks 

 reflected an accumulated heat in that deep gorge that 

 was well-nigh sufi"ocating. Thermometers are useless. 

 The point reached that night we named Equator 

 Camp, believing that that geographical symbol passed 

 between our two tents. Perhaps it did — certainly it 

 ran within a few yards. 



These four days we had shot no game, and a gazelle 

 [granti, doe) killed this evening came as a perfect 

 godsend to the commissariat. Note that a certain 

 jDroportion of tinned meat should always be carried for 

 occasions such as these. Strict supervision, moreover, 

 must be exercised over the black cook, otherwise he will 

 recklessly use ujd these emergency reserves on days when 

 there is plenty of fresh meat at hand. In most camps 

 game is superabundant ; but there are long marches and 

 gameless stretches for which a reserve of tinned stuff, 

 such as " army rations," should always be provided. 

 To-night, the diary records, we "' dined sumptuously." 

 The local Masai, friendly yet finely independent, had 

 refused to trade us a single sheep, or to hire out some of 

 their sturdy donkeys, that would have served us well for 

 transport. Their reasons are intelligible enough. The 

 habits of these naked savages, living solely on meat, 

 milk and blood, needing neither cloth, beads, wire nor 

 anvthiuo- we could oive them, left no medium of exchano-e. 

 True, they came daily into our camps for medicine and 

 medical advice, but that they expected for nothing — 

 which, it is jDrobable, was about the par value of any 

 such advice we could give. 



We visited one of their kraals, strongly stockaded, to 

 inc[uire the way to the Molo. A score of Masai came out 

 to meet us, each carrying his spear. The chief, an old 

 man, grizzled, reserved and self-possessed, was a splendid 

 savage, standing some seven feet high. In reply to 

 our questions he knelt down, and, by patting the ground 

 with his hand, indicated the direction we should follow. 

 In August flights of Egyptian geese and pelicans are 



E 



