A TWELFTH ON THE EQUATOR bl 



companied by reed-pipe and rude guitar, not wanting in 

 its own appropriate melody — startled the stillness of 

 the tropical night. The final pipe was enjoyed amid 

 wondrous serenade of nightjars and cicadas, ground- 

 crickets and bull-froo's, with a backins; of laus^hino- 

 hyenas beyond. 



From Ecjuator Camp we resumed our march north- 

 wards towards Baringo. One day's travel across low 

 rocky ridges, clad with scattered mimosas, brought us 

 to the Molo River at Ya-Nabanda — a spot where later 

 on we enjoyed some memorable sport. Thence following 

 the river till it diverged to the west at a point known 

 as Maguiohni, we struck due north, three days' hard 

 travelling, entangled all the time in intricate passes 

 through rocky mountains — cruel volcanic lava, hidden 

 boulders overgrown with wiry grass and trailers, horrid 

 with bush and thorn — bad going for the heavily-laden 

 safari, especially when rhinos filled their breasts with 

 frequent alarm. 



It was our object to explore Lake Hannington, lying 

 among the rocky hills to the eastward, and w^ith that 

 idea we had left the track ; but the deviation, with 

 loaded men, proved impracticable. We struck one 

 corner of the lake, nestling amid forest-clad heights, all 

 reflected on the still surface, that recalled the scenery 

 of Norway. The shallows and mud-flats at the head of 

 the lake were brilliant with innumerable herds of rosy 

 flamingoes that hid the water from view. 



We were the less disappointed by this failure as the 

 rugged volcanic hills and thorny jungle that surround 

 Lake Hannington did not appear at all likely ground for 

 eland, which we had been told frequented the shores of 

 that lake, and to secure which had been our object in 

 trying to reach it. That rocky country appeared more 

 suitable for koodoo than for eland. 



At all these camps, being in the Masai cattle-country, 

 plagues of flies {like ordinary house-flies) tormented 

 beyond bearing. In the morning, luckily, we were 

 away before the demons awoke. At that hour they 



