116 COLT TBALNING. 



but it is only a matter of a little more care and extra work, 

 to make them work in submissively. It is advisable in all 

 these cases to test thoroughly for two or three days, before 

 driving. 



DRIVING DOUBLE. 



We first drive the colt double because easier. If this 

 is desirable, subject first to Second Method, making him 

 gentle to be touched around the quarters and parts gener- 

 ally, so that there will be no fear when touched by the 

 tugs or whiffletree. Put on the off side first, because less 

 liable to be excited there, then reverse to the near side. 



HITCHING THE COLT. 



In most cases when the colt is taught to follow freely 

 as before explained, there will be but little inclination to 

 try to pull loose when hitched by the halter, especially 

 if the stall is wide, and the hitching part of the halter is 

 left rather long. But as it is the best proof of skill to guard 

 against successful resistance at any point, such precautions 

 must be taken as will prevent it. It must be borne in mind 

 that learning to stand when hitched, above any other con- 

 dition of training, should be so thoroughly taught that there 

 will be no inclination to pull, even when subjected to the 

 greatest excitement or fear, as from dogs or hogs running 

 in front, cats or hens jumping or flying around the manger, 

 the blowing of newspapers, etc., near the head. The 

 surest and best method for overcoming this fear is as fol- 

 lows : 



Take a large size War Bridle cord of the best quality 

 about twenty-eight to thirty feet long, double it, and make 

 a noose of the doubled end around the body a little back 

 of where the saddle rests. Bring the other ends forward 

 between the fore legs, through the ring or hole in the man- 



