30-2 STALLIONS. 



hand, and so keep the head turned straight from you. But 

 should he prove too much, the only alternative is to get out 

 of the way. Presuming, however, that he is under good con- 

 trol, the point now is to disable him. Have ready a cord, 

 throw the doubled part over the neck and pass over the lower 

 jaw ; bring the other part down through the loop tight, and 

 tie into a single hitch. Now put on another cord, and if nec- 

 essary tie up one leg to prevent kicking, get him out of 

 the stall and subject him to treatment, modifying it accord- 

 ing to the case. 



Should the horse show a cool, daring expression of eye, 

 with ears thrown back, and standing sullenly, and seem- 

 ingly indifferent, no chances should be taken. Such a horse 

 will wait until within reach, when he will kick, strike, or 

 bite, so quickly that no firmness or quickness of action 

 would save a man. In such a case, resort to any means 

 most convenient and safe that will give sufficient control to 

 enable subjecting him to the regular treatment. If no hal- 

 ter or bridle is on, the following course may be adopted : 

 Put on a halter as described in Colt Training, tie up the 

 head, put on a bridle, or one or two War Bridles, get him 

 out on a sodded place, and subject him to treatment. Of 

 course if the stall or room is large enough, he can be sub- 

 jected to treatment there. 



The point of making the horse sufficiently gentle to be 

 handled and used while free from rigging or restraint of 

 any kind, must be thoroughly established as a foundation 

 upon which this after-treatment must be based. Unless 

 this can be done, the horse cannot practically be made safe. 

 In my experience with these cases I make the lesson, if I 

 can, a quick, overpowering rush offeree, which breaks up 

 all resistance, and makes him submit before he warms up, 



