JUMPING OVEK FENCES. 327 



ends, and, the head being held fast by the halter, it is im- 

 possible for him to get up; so a large, roomy stall would 

 of itself be almost a complete remedy. The simplest way 

 to prevent it is to tie one end of a piece of rope or cord to 

 the beam or flooring directly overhead, and the opposite 

 end to the head-piece of the halter back of the ears, leav- 

 ing it just long enough to allow the horse to reach his nose 

 to the ground. As he lies down and tries to roll, being 

 unable to bring the top of his head to the ground, he is 

 disabled from rolling. A small ring should be stitched to 

 the top of the halter, to which the strap or cord can be eas- 

 ily and securely fastened when necessary. 



Some horses are liable, by pawing, to get the fore foot, 

 and in some cases even the hind foot by scratching the head 

 with the leg, over the halter-strap, thereby becoming tan- 

 gled and helpless in the stall. The halter should be hitched 

 higher than common, though long enough to permit the 

 horse to lie down easily. 



JUMPING OVER FENCES. 



Every dairyman knows that a cow or ox will not at- 

 tempt to jump a fence, pull it down, or run, while a board 

 is over the forehead, attached to the horns in front of the 

 eyes ; this simple means will usually work well upon cattle, 

 but will not do upon a horse, because it gives too much 

 freedom to see over the nose. 



If a horse or mule, put on a halter that fits well to the 

 head a five-ring halter is best. Next find a piece of 

 thin leather (an old boot-leg will do), about as long as the 

 head, and from four to five inches wider than the head is 

 at the eyes. Form it same as in cut, with a string attached 

 at each corner. Attach the upper corners by the strings 

 to the halter, where the brow-piece is attached to the 

 cheek-piece. Tie the cords attached to the lower corners 



