680 



SHOEING. 



so much at any part as to cause bleeding. On this account the 

 operator should feel his way cautiously, cutting deeper as he goes 

 back. The bar should be cut away to within three-quarters of 

 an inch from the point of the heel. No more should be cut away 

 from the rest of the bar, or part coming under the clip, than may 

 be necessary to give a straight shoulder for it to rest against. 

 Both sides must be treated alike. If the part has been cut through 



in the least, it should be pro- 

 tected after the shoe is on by 

 melting a little rosin and tal- 

 low into it, and covering with 

 tow. 



By looking at Fig. 413, an 

 outline of this arch can be 

 seen on the inside. There 

 have been many ignorant 

 and pretentious quacks, who 

 have presumed to weaken the 

 heel by sawing in between 

 the bars and frog. Only a 

 very small point can be 

 reached in this way, without 

 cutting to the quick. The 

 saw cannot be used, here at 

 all with advantage. The 

 point is to weaken the horn at the bottom of the cleft so that it 

 will spread freely, and this can be done properly only with the 

 cutting knife. The proper flexibility of the heels can be judged 

 by a slight pressure with the hand. 



This done, our next object is to remove the compression of the 

 wall. To do this, fit to it a rather thin, flat shoe, made of good 

 iron. At the heels it should be made a little wider and longer 

 than the foot, and the nail-holes punched, as in Fig. 508. Lay on 

 the shoe as intended to be nailed, and with a pencil make a mark 

 over the inside of the bar at the point of the heel on both sides. 

 This done, accurately punch or drill two holes through the iron, 

 about three-sixteenths of an inch in diameter. If it can be done, 

 it would be better to have the holes beveled on the inside of the 

 bar, extending up and back at the point of the heel. Next, take 



FIG. 509. The shoe when on. 



